The grain in the 2nd photo is beautiful.
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Reminded me of this! Haha
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A very rare occasion for me nowadays. I made a wooden unresponsive. Its zebrawood 56.3mmx47.5mmx64g. The performance is above average for a wooden yoyo. Yes, you can buy it if you want. DM me.
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Absolutely gorgeous. If anyone is on the fence on this wooden unresponsive, pounce on it.
If you don’t and it just sits, I will.
Thank you Xanadu for the tag brother
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That green is gorgeous 
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I took a better pic of the blue one - for some reason the original one looked dull.
Into the woods, into the woods, into the woods…
I aim to make two purpleheart unresponsives this weekend. We’ll see.
One for Onedrop, the other for whoever else.
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This week marks 5 months of yoyo making for me. I thought I’d share an album of what I’ve made so far.
Thanks to this whole yo-yo community for being supportive folks along the way.
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The one I made on the weekend split as I was putting it on my lathe. Bummer. Looks like thr rest of my purpleheart could be faulty.
Purple 
for @adamantiumpops
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Hey guys, so it turns out I have everything needed machine and tool wise to try and make my own wooden throw. Any advice and do’s and don’t’s would be extremely helpful!
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How important is grain direction on wooden yoyos? Should I always try to get it parallel with the axle?
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The grain direction can impact response.
If the grain is parallel to the axle (so end grain is exposed near the axle), it will create more responsiveness. The Legend Wing and TMBR wood-thread axles have end grain oriented like this. The friction of the end grain becomes the response system.
The long grain side is less responsive, which is why, for example, I use response holes near the axle.
Either way, it’s usually important to orient the halves of your yoyo so the grain pattern is a mirror reflection on both sides. This helps reduce wobble and vibe because the weight is more likely to be distributed evenly.
Here’s an example:
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