Yeah I can get those on the YYBC public folder in the morning and share the link.
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Hi I dumped the Blank files in the YYBC public folder under Designs.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ytoQwbqNL86Nm72ggW9PXhJM5BEjiDnF?usp=drive_link
If you have your own 3D printer have at it or send them to a local makerspace or library with a free 3D printer service and go nuts. A full plate of blanks (16 blanks) was like 4.6g and about 1h 15m give or take. im going off memory. I would run prints for these per object instead of by layer if your gonna print a bunch. I can dump my print config in there too I use Orca for my slicer on a Ender 3 so nothing special you can probably push it to go much faster I’ve just not had a chance to tweak things yet. too much life going on.
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I’m gonna give those a shot in resin this weekend to see how well they come out.
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I bet they would work out really well in resin.
I have some bearing locks i was trying to print but while i have an stl ive worked on i haven’t had time to test print successfully yet. Also wanted to do an A, kk bearing blank and a b blank but those came out weird when i printed them so i need to see what i did wrong.
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I’ve been really wanting to get some wood pla. Anyone have experience with the stuff? Any special considerations. I’m wondering if it would work better for a blank.
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I’ve used wood filament some. Needs to be very dry and have to dial in settings or you’ll get very stringy and weak prints. Also should use a hardened nozzle I think. I had disappointing results, but didn’t have a drier at the time and didn’t do a bunch of tests to dial in the retraction, temp, and other settings either. Good Luck.
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And now I’m gonna walk around making dinosaur sounds
all of these stl files and what they are based on are in the following drive for folks to make there own if they desire. Designs - Google Drive
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Just whipped up a mod for the Layer Infinity Capso containers by @wayne927 - Since the capso is modular in the sense that you can use freehand caps or print your own, I thought it would be pretty cool to add a stand to it.
This little stand can be used standalone or attached to the the capso lid.
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Ohh this is awesome.
Cool little stand! But make sure it doesn’t snap too easily 
It’s surprisingly really robust given it’s geometry, you’d have to intentionally try to break it in order for it to give away 
The posts are about 3.50mm in thickens and they are more rectangle shaped to increase surface area / layer adhesion, it’s much stronger than if it were round the pictures make it look super thin and brittle like spaghetti hahaha!
Those look so good!
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Anyone know how to get more accurate prints??? I’ve been trying to print a yoyo I found out of curiosity, but the seat has minor inaccuracies which prevent the bearing from fitting. I’ve also had a similar problem on a bearing counterweight I wanted to print (hole for the bearing and plug have minor innaccuracies, bearing doesn’t fit)
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Tolerances. You could try to calibrate e steps and adjust belt tensions, tram your bed and make sure your z gantry is perfectly square and aligned. You could get all kinds of anal and maybe get more accurate. You could also upgrade your motors to smaller incremental steps and play with rails k stead of rollers, if you don’t have it messing with dual z axis and a lighter print bed. Smaller diameter nozzle. All that junk can get you more dimensional accuracy, better cleaner prints and overall faster prints but…
I’m lazy. So my solution just build in the tolerance to the design. Need a slightly better hole either add relief points so the print can stretch when the axle is inserted or account for your printers shortcomings make the seat bigger by a small bit.
Lots of rabbit holes you can go down and I’m not the most experienced person but I am lazy and will take the easiest path dedicate if it’s just for me. Others I out more effort in but that’s different.
You could also post process the piece. If it’s not right sand it or use a tool to cut the print to the right shape (carefully)
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Use a 0.2 mm nozzle.
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