Rad!
Perfect description of the Currier. Mine plays the same, soft and slow.
2 Likes
What’s the axle diameter on it? (In the groove where the string sits)
1 Like
I think new they are 5/16" compared to the No Jive 1/4". TMBR called them 516 compared to their standard walnuts that were 416s. Colin would claim the biger axle provided more response in his descriptions, but the trade off was spin time. Similar to the D vs C bearing debate on acceleration.
3 Likes
Every wooden model of mine uses 8mm axles. I have reasons for that. If the yoyo is designed well, the larger diameter doesn’t cause problems. One reason I use 8mm instead of 1/4" is that the yoyos tend to behave a bit peppier.
4 Likes
The currier I had had the lowest spin time of any fixed axle I’d used. I think a big factor of that is not so much the axle diameter, but the metal hardware at the centre.
4 Likes
Any walnut in the future?
1 Like
I never had much success using walnut. It’s a great wood to work, but the yoyos it yields tend to be a bit wobbly.
2 Likes
Yes, it does have low spin time. I usually add extra regens to keep it going.
@yoyojoe, I have an Urchin and a take apart Harbinger in walnut. I’d be willing to part with one if you are in search of this. Send me a pm. 
2 Likes
Love my walnut knack and I think a walnut blood cell would be spectacular.
Also sent you a message @Xanadu
1 Like
Ok, another question about the currier. (1) Is the response consistent and snappy, and (2) does it feel smooth when throwing a sleeper or do you feel the holes against the string?
1 Like
So for Hildys’ in general, sleep times were not their strong point, though some players probably have the power to make this not an issue. They are however extremely smooth with a distinct softness to them and a very consistent response, even with new Type 8 or10 strings. I will sometimes even break strings in with my Currier for play with other woods. If I want more spin times to focus on 1A tricks like Kwyjibo I would use a Type 8 string.
5 Likes
Thanks! That’s really helpful
3 Likes
Does anyone here has experience with Ipe, Cumaru, or black locust wood?
I’m looking to try some new axle woods that are significantly stronger than walnut. I’m also moving toward the 5/16” or 8mm diameter axle.
Ipe and Cumaru are naturally oily woods, but I’m pretty confident that I can prepare the wood appropriately for epoxying and that the epoxy will hold it. Do you think the oily nature of the wood would mess with the response?
@vegabomb , your ebony axles work really well. Any tips for turning axles from really hard, oily woods?
@Glenacius_K , have you tried any of these woods?
For reference:
Black Locust
Ipe
Cumaru
4 Likes
Unfortunately I haven’t turned any of those. I would do a couple epoxy glue ups and abuse them to see if the epoxy holds. As far as the axle I use a square radius carbide. You can definitely do it with a skew… I’m just not that good with a skew, 
4 Likes
Many years ago while I was a marine chemist, I inspected a ship a couple of times that was made from African Ironwood. It was the toughest wood I ever saw. Shipyard tools routinely broke trying to make repairs. It was hard enough that barnacle’s had a difficult time gaining purchase.
There are several species from Australia and a couple in the US. Might be worth looking into.
Jeff
5 Likes
I have not tried any of these woods. Most of them look too hard or oily to make reliable axle woods. I would imagine they would also be very expensive to buy.
Here are some key things to remember:
The harder the wood, the less responsive, and more scorch resistant it will be. It also adds a touch extra weight at the centre, because harder woods usually always have a higher specific gravity.
Woods with lower density and hardness (like birch, walnut) tend to respond more easily and have lower spintime. The have lower specic gravity, adding less weight to the centre.
Another thing to look out for is how oily the wood is too because they tend to have a higher glue failure rate. Woods like wenge, purpleheart and lots of woods from South East Asia, Indonesia or Malaysia. You can prepare them to glue better by wiping them with acetone before glueing. have also found that oilier woods tend to be less responsive when broken in.
Grain texture plays a part too. Open grained wood tends to scorch less in my experience.
What you need to look for is a wood that is easily available in the US, with specific gravity of around .8, with a janka rating of something like 1,200 lbf that is known to be fairly char resistant.
If you can find white oak dowel, I would image that would be pretty good. Yellow birch (not to be confused with white) may also make a great option.
I use Tasmanian oak, which is is perfect as I can find locally. It responds great, lasts well and does not scorch easily. Its also readily available here at my local hardware store in 8mm dowels.
6 Likes
The difference in weight between a dense wood axle and a non dense wood axle is in no way significant in a wooden yoyo. I haven’t weighed two to compare but I’ll bet it’s less than 1/10 of a gram. That wouldn’t matter in a bearing metal yoyo let alone a wooden fixed axle. Just my opinion.