Most failed prints seem to be due too poor printer setup, for example incorrect bed height or dirty build surface. A school printer that gets a lot of inexperienced hands on it could have a lot of other issues on top of that though, such as worn out parts, loose components or even cheap filament.
Ivan
That’s what I’m thinking. I’ve seen some great prints from that machine too though. Deadpool head, Mando helmet, I even got a pipe stand to print wonderfully. But my masks just won’t do it. Maybe they’ll let me go in on an off day and tinker with it myself. Otherwise I guess I can find a service to print these. Or sell a good bit of the collection to get a printer myself.
Very cool! Technologies should exist for such things! Hope I can create something like this with my printer Creality
I see all these yoyos being printed. I printed one of my own but im having issues with vibe. Anyone have tips on how i can reduce the vibe?
Recently (May) I printed this snail and then processed and painted it to give it a bronzed cast look. Turned it into a small mood lamp for the stand in our living room. The shell was printed in a translucent glow filament too. I had more photos of the progress and the finished piece but I recently had an issue with my phone and it wiped out all of my data. So these are the only ones I have of it a the moment.
I had a big snag during the final 25 minutes of the shell and ended up with a big hole in the center. So I sliced the missing piece and printed it out, shaped it, molded it and blended it into the existing shell. It was a lot of work but ultimately, it ended up looking pretty good after I sculpted it with the dremel, sanded and polished it.
Some brackets for EGO batteries and various yard tools so I can hang them on the wall a little bit easier.
A Bunch of these WallControl magnetic pegs I modeled so I could quickly hang stuff of the wallcontrol board above my workbench. They are sized to fit standard pegboard as well.
Just printed some fresh @wayne927’s Layer Infinity FH weight rings an slapped them in the new worlds 2023 large bearing Free Hand in some Inland marble PLA. Not that it needed the extra weight but it just looks so sick IMO.
Not really sold on the nut covers, I’m in the process of making smaller ones. I ran out of the OG friction sticker centers so I used some silicone ones to quiet it down temporarily until I put something else in their place.
Also just finished printing up some Gridfinity frames and storage bins for knives. I’m not done with this yet just checking fitment and compatibility with some of my go-to EDCs. Spyderco Yojimbo 2, Manix 2, Orion Solaris are all pretty large knives so it’s cool to see a bin to fit them in. I need to print some more for some of my smaller knives like the Knafs Lander and Skyline.
Years ago I modded a hayabusa to have large c size bearing using modfather spacers. It didn’t work so well and the dif pads have long since dried out. So I made some replacement spacers for it out of pet g and using silicone pads. But I’m out of pads so apparently I’m off to the hardware store and it will be flowable silicone.
Nice! You’ll have to tell us how it plays!
Will do. It can’t possibly play worse than before😂
Been having a lot of fun printing out more @wayne927’s / Layer Infinity Capso containers haha!
Did a full TPU one so it’s super squishy. It’s pretty dang cool actually! It’s 95A shore hardness so it’s not too squishy, it’s more rigid while having a flexible give. Think of it like a hard rubber phone case. Super durable and real quiet with parts in it!
I have a set of translucent blue Pro Z caps that I put in the lid which is kind of cool. I think I still prefer the white FH1 caps a bit more though. The lid becomes super rigid with a hard cap in it.
Then I decided the combine some of the marble PLA that I used in the previous post above and do a duo-tone with the TPU. I only did the lid to see how it’d look and turn out I’ll do the case part later. Really digging the two colors together, plus the texture is super cool. It’s hard and rigid but grippy because of the TPU.
After all that I broke out some of my favorite two fun filaments. A translucent glow in the dark and a thermochromic filament, both by a local company called Capricorn Tubes. I did a semi-transparent insert made out of the glow filament and changed the infill geometry so it would show up as a texture in the cap. The lid and body are made of the thermochromic filament.
The color change goes from green when it’s cold to yellow when it’s warm. The glowy filament has little speckles in it that are semi translucent but glow glue once exposed to the light.
Haha TPU for this thing!! Do the threads still work?
Oh yeah! I was super curious if it would work and they totally do! Surprisingly they work just like the PLA variant and it holds nice and tight. The PLA lids also screw on it and the TPU lid can screw onto the PLA bodies. I printed the body and all of the cap at 0.36mm until it gets to the threads and had it shift the layer height at the threads and printed them at 0.20mm so they would have a good chance at printing well.
This is really cool!
I was messing around in fusion and came up with a new yoyo. It’s printed in pet g and weighs in at 63grams.
Got a Kasm today. The print quality is excellent. What printer are you using @wayne927?
Thanks 
Ender 3 Pro, upgraded to be similar to V2
You’ve got all your settings really dialed in I guess. Are you using PLA for these?
Haha yeah, takes time to find the optimal settings. Yep all PLA.
