I’ll chime in I love both my kasm. Great throw
2 Likes
Is Kasm printed at 0.16 layer height?
Also that’s the clearest clear I’ve seen on the cap. What is the clear filament brand ?
All my prints are 0.2mm including the Kasm caps. I rarely use anything smaller than that unless I really need to.
The clear filament is in-house by https://3dprintingcanada.com/ That roll lasted me so long I doubt the current ones are the same formula…
2 Likes
What upgrades did you do to your ender? I’m still running a standard ender 3 pro
Can anyone help me find some Free - ish 3D Printing yoyo files, or Yoyo Stand files?
My son just started a after school 3D Printing group.
He has expressed interest in printing a Yoyo as a project but is no where near capable of designing yet.
Thanks Everyone.
1 Like
Go to @wayne927 s layer infinity site for the stand .stl. It’s like 5$. I haven’t seen anything worth while on thingiverse really for yoyo prints. I think you can get free yoyo stl from @jeffreypang911 and use his guts system that should be in stock here at yye.
3 Likes
SKR mini E3 main board
All metal extruder
Capricorn bowden tube
Yellow bed springs and metal dials
Bullseye fan assembly
Octoprint
120mm PC fan for the board and power supply (this is how I could sleep at night…)
3 Likes
No doubt, the Ender3 Pro is so noisy stock. I got the Ender3 S1 last year and it’s a huge upgrade. The auto bed leveling is amazing and it’s very quiet. I’ve still got the Ender3 Max for the big stuff, but now the new Bambu A1 mini is calling to me. The A1 mini looks like the perfect yoyo making machine!
1 Like
Y’all make me want to pull the trigger and get a 3d printer so bad.
1 Like
What printers are you looking at?
Some pics for my current yoyo
So i had this idea for using spacer from adegleyoyo parts, so i asked the owner to give me some to try out
The bolt and nuts are just basic m5 25mm
tweaked 3 times to get the spec right for it
The video of playing is on my Instagram
My next step is ditching the metal spacers and using 3d printing ones
2 Likes
You can do a bearing seat in the print to avoid spacers.
Tried before, didnt go well
1 Like
I’ve tried too. Easier said than done to get a good 3D printed bearing post.
1 Like
I didn’t try it in pla, this was in pet-g so that might be the reason it worked for me. I also printed with the bearing seat facing up.
3 Likes
The reason i use spacers is 3d print bearing seats actually a bit easy to worn out or break, so making it module was my first route.
3 Likes
I’ve been quite busy printing schtuff recently.
Back in November this company called Turners Warehouse (wood turning store) was holding a fundraiser drive & wood turning ornament contest where they take donations of turned ornaments and auction them off, the proceeds then benefit a charity. I try to participate every year and this year I did quite a few ornaments and brought some 3D printed elements into the mix.
This first one was the second attempt for this ornament. It actually started out as a stabilized wood piece that I 3D printed a small cabin for and then cast it all in resin. Unfortunately the colors in the resin overtook the piece and it turned out unusable. (see pics)
mid paint ^ \
When I pulled the resin out of my mold I had a feeling it wasn’t going to go well, but I persevered and kept going with it, hoping maybe the scene would reveal itself.
Still wasn’t looking good but I kept going.
Yeah. It wasn’t working out. I re-mounted it vertically and thought maybe I could make a window to get in deep enough to reveal the 3D printed cabin, but even still, it just didn’t work out. So I ended up scrapping it. One good thing did come out of it though. When I parted off the piece I was working on, I was still left with a big chunk of resin so I went ahead and turned it down into a ring shape.
Then I decided to re-print the cabin, re paint it and go with a similar theme with this new piece.
What’s super crazy is it ended up winning 1st place in the resin category in the contest they were holding. It ended up also selling pretty well at auction. So I guess in the end it all worked out quite well!
Along with the the ornament above, I made a few other blanks out of 3D printed inserts that I made and cast in resin. They turned out decent enough.
The brown and white one was with the same wood as before mixed with a PLA design I modeled. PLA sucks to turn on the lathe BTW! I’ve done it before and had ok success, but this particular one was a matte PLA and it just did not want to work well. I definitely won’t use the matte anymore.
This acid green and purple came out pretty well, for some reason I didn’t take a picture of it finished. I thought I had, but I can’t seem to find it. The purple insert was PETG and it was so so so much better to turn.
I have also been printing more gridfinity organizers for my EDC drawer. I’m still not done but it’s getting there.
I recently printed out some Ridge wallet copies in various filaments, PLA, PETG, TPU. I really dig the TPU one quite a bit. I like most of them though.
7 Likes