I just replaced the FEP film on my printer and bought a magnetic build plate for easier cleaning and removal of prints! Going to make some counterweights this weekend to see how the new setup works. Hoping to buy some flexible resin soon to see if I can get some softer counterweights from it.
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Got an ender3 v2 neo for Christmas and I’ve been tasked with making peppa pig figures for my daughter’s third birthday party which will be a fun project. Then I want to try to print a spin top. Eventually I would like to try my hand at a fixed axle yoyo design and print a counterweight but baby steps. Still figuring out bed adhesion and printing ugly benchy boats
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Elmers purple glue stick on a smooth pei flexible build plate will be your best friend.
Happy printing. Hit me up if you have any questions/issues.
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First things first I fixed my z offset and leveled the bed and hot damn that helped a bunch. First official print that didn’t fail.
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Printed the layer infinity capso and it was a neat project. Nearly ran out of filament but it was pretty much right on the mark.
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I do have some annoying issues with bed adhesion. It might be I need to clean it again and add some glue stick or maybe my leveling is still a bit off. Not sure but the print was a success so I’m happy.
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Final result looks good. From the looks of this first layer photo I’d say to check your bed level again. Also, I’ve had excellent results cleaning the build plate with water and a paper towel every 2-3 prints and applying glue stick before each print. Additionally, it can be very quirky to actually have the bed mesh be applied in the gcodes for your prints. For my Ender 3 S1 I had to manually insert a Gcode script to tell the machine to take and use a new bed level before each print. I just happened to stumble across a YouTube video that explained the process. Without this script the machine was taking a bed level mesh and then not even using it on the print, so make double sure your printer is actually using the bed mesh your BL Touch takes each print.
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Right on! Welcome to the club!
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Yeah I’ve setup a decent start code I actually need to look At it because it runs a leveling command twice on every print so I’m doing something silly somewhere.
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First layer is more consistent now but i can’t tell if this looks exactly right.
Was printing these coins and was really confused by why they all got messed up near the end. My wife went into the closet during the print and bumped the print bed…
My second rim job failed toward the end. I have an idea how to salvage it if I have to by printing a cap and making a second set of these unfinished rims but I’m also trying to figure out if I can get the print job to start up again where I left off. I have where it ended so technically I could get it started again but the printer lost power so it’s also lost home orientation. It has no idea where it is in relation to the print job…
I haven’t removed the print from the bed yet but I got to think on how I can move forward. I might sleep on it. It would be nice to be able to save this one somehow.
Hey all, I wanted to share this throw that I printed! My goal with this one was to print an aesthetic yoyo without support material that accepts side effects. Secondary goals were to make it heavy for performance reasons, yet not brickish and fun to play.
The profile features many small “cuts” which match the stepped design of the cup. I used a hilbert curve for the first layer which looks cool, if imperfect on this print. The absence of support material means no extra stuff to tear off, which damages the print and induces vibe in my experience. I also used variable infill density to concentrate most of the weight toward the outside of the throw (not the rims, but the top and bottom) for stability.
Specs:
Material: rainbow PLA
Diameter: 61.2 mm
Width: 48 mm
Weight: 73.9g with energy dome SEs
I think this design took advantage of the 3D printing process, as I don’t think the undercuts in the cup could be injection molded and they would be challenging to machine. I’m quite happy with it, though there is certainly room for improvement. Vibe is fairly minimal, but I’ve tuned my printer quite a bit in the couple of years since I made it. If I can make a smoother one and shave off like 2 grams, this thing will bang. If such a throw were mass produced, I would probably buy it. I guess creating a yoyo that you would want to play with is the reason most people get into yoyo design.
Anyways, here’s a trick! It is very satisfying throwing a trick that you created with a yoyo that you also created. Let me know what you think!
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Prototype V1 and V2 of the “Big Sun”.
V1 is unwieldy, but V2 plays amazing. Big like the Ophan and PockEHt, but slightly larger. 1/4 walnut axle with variable infill for unique floaty yet powerful feel.
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Nice walnut axle I love that. That’s an awesome project.
These look awesome.
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That is dope. You up for sharing the STL? I have a bunch of side effects and would be interested in giving this a shot
Thanks! Would be happy to share it. I’ll message you.
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