You are correct. The slick plastic axle is terrible on its own. The print instructions recommend lightly sanding the axle in the center to give it a wood-like feel. Doing the same on the shells could have a similar effect.
I’ll print a few more versions and see how it goes.
I read the instructions and didn’t quite understand what you meant with sanding it with dremel. I was sanding the tip just so I could get it into the shells on either side. They are a really tight fit which looked to be a few mm’s in difference, was that intentional ?
Thanks for the tip with the pads, I happened to have some extras I just ripped out from my b-grade and old YYF throws from last months yard sale
You want to lightly rough up the part of the axle that the string loops around to simulate the feel of a wood axle. The axle should push fit into the shells without sanding, but that said, tolerances on 3d printers are all slightly different so ymmv.
I like your gap shim tool. I’ve been printing mostly circular shim tools with slots cut in them for setting gaps, but was debating going for a playing card sized so I can more easily remove them.
We’ve been talking about it on the Fixed Axle Collective Discord. I don’t think I’m confident enough in the PLA’s strength to risk a TMBR on one so I’m mostly just testing for fit and seeing if my model is good. I think it would have to be made of a stronger material.
If you are going to print one I would try to print the axel on its side. It’ll make the surface rougher, but it won’t snap on the layer lines when you apply a force.