I couldn’t achieve standard yoyo weights (62-70 grams) without making it look like a brick so I just bought a lot of 6mm ball bearings. They work great just takes a couple of prints to get them to fit.
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The red one looks so cool.
Thanks! It has some pulse vibe but that doesn’t bother me on a plastics. This one is made out of a carbon fiber pla so it has a fun texture. Printing one now out of normal matte pla to see if it makes a difference.
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I love how CF prints.
Are you glueing the bearings in or are they placed in while printing?
All of my designs with bearings are press fit. All the holes in the sides of the yoyos are to remove them if need be. I bought a lot of bearings but I wasn’t down to lose them if I didn’t like how the yoyo played.
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So like you just press the bearing into the hole and it snaps into place? Very cool.
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Might be part of the vibe though if there is even the slightest bit of play
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I can promise there is no play in the bearings for the red one 
I had to use the back of a large allen wrench to get them in. The CF is harder than normal pla. I think its because I made the hubs looser for this version.
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I’m very happy with how this one came out. This was maybe the second yoyo I designed to print but I was never happy with the CAD. It looked like an end chopped off a sphere for a long time, and I was highly suspicious of it ever ending up being a player. I set it aside for a while but picked it back up recently and finished it off and printed it and it came out awesome. I need to find something to add visual interest to the cup and maybe soften the outer edge and maybe add a mm or 2 to the width, but I really like it so far.
It has an 8 hole “tic tac” response and clocks in at 44g.
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@Captrogers @antman Hey guys Just got my buddy to help me print this on the weekend. Plays really well but the response is a little unpredictable for mine. I went with ultra-grey silicone for the response, but I wonder if I should’ve gone with flowable instead.
ps @antman I’m based in Melb 
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With that gap and those high walls you probably don’t even need a response system.
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Big Sun inspired responsive. I call it the “Smaller Fish.” I have a lot of ball bearings so might as add them to everything. Wrist feels bad so removed 6 of the balls. Decrease the weight by about 5.2 grams. With 6/12 balls total weight is ~50 grams. @TheThrowingGnome
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Yeah maybe its the response that’s making it a little unpredictable 
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Can you not achieve a weight of 50 on infill alone?
Yes most definitely. I just have a lot of the ball bearings so I figured why not It technically adds more rim wieght but its a responsive so I don’t really think it matters.
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Can you adjust the gap by not pushing axle in completely?
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Smaller fish looks so cool!
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It came with shims to keep to the minimum 2.5mm gap. I’ve tried usual fat to thin strings before this too. I’ll try to widen it a bit more and see 
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Thanks for the feedback! The pads look a bit too thin. Ideally they should protrude a touch.
I’m using these 1mm thick pads:
It should protrude a little bit:
@TheThrowingGnome, interesting thought… I’ll try one with no pads. The gap side will probably need some light sanding to give it some texture since it’ll be smooth from the print bed. @captnrogersyoyo actually put one together without any silicone and reported the empty hole was snaggy and did not respond well.
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I could see that being an issue. I meant change the design to eliminate the recess for the pads. Now that I think about it more though, the axle material will be a big factor in the response. I am wondering if a printed axle will be too slick for a consistent response without something else like pads to help. Maybe consider testing a 4 or 5 hole type of response? Only one way to find out and that’s with a bunch of prototypes to see what works best I guess. Happy printing!
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