That’s normally a sign that the wood is still green, not dried. If it is it will reshape as it dries over time.
2 Likes
It can be, but the wood is years old and dry. It can also be a quality of the wood.
2 Likes
This can also happen if your chisels are sharp.
One of my favorite things about hand planing are the curls of timber you end up getting. Makes a smooth sound too.
1 Like
Nope. This one was slightly wet. It started cracking. Better wait a while before using the fresh batch of photinia.
2 Likes
Turned a one piece today from a block of cypress pine I had. Turned out pretty well. One piece are the classic way yoyos were made.
12 Likes
If you have it cut into pieces that are smaller you can actually microwave the wood to speed up the drying process. Weigh the block of wood, microwave for 5 minutes or so, weigh it again. Keep doing this until the weight is the same before and after. That means all (most) of the moisture is gone.
6 Likes
Great placement of the logo on this one. Right on the heart of the wood.
4 Likes
Okay, twist my arm…I’ll take it! How much? 
1 Like
You can buy it if you want, but it’s not perfect. It feels nice to use, but it requires a bit of string tension to respond well.
Today I’m throwing a true player a TMBR Maple eHTEEN and 100% cotton YYE Type-10. Consistently so good.
4 Likes
those look like some quality throws
2 Likes
How long do you let that dry out before using it?
edit: should’ve kept reading above. I’ll usually strip the bark and then either wax the end grain or paint it, then store it so it gets airflow while it dries. I’ve got a 4 1/2’ x 16" Maple log in my garage right now drying. Along with some yellow pine and cedar. About a year on the maple right now. The pine and cedar are just waiting for my shop to finish being setup so I can start some projects with it.
2 Likes
10 Likes
The photinia wood was cut down probably 5 years ago. Most of it is dry, but there are a couple of pieces that have a little too much moisture.
Yeah, I should really should strip it the bark, wax them and store it in a good airflow space, but I just usually leave the wood as it is until it’s dry enough. I’m not great with drying practises. Normally, I just buy it kiln dried.
I have wood that I really want to use that can’t possible dry anywhere I put it without splitting. It’s a pain. I tried microvawing some small pieces the other night and they all got small splits.
2 Likes
How does the eHTEEN compare to the eHKNOWN?
1 Like
18 was available in solid ash and maple. Both are heavier than the UN, with the maple quite a bit more substantial. UN has been thicker reshaped rims to add some beef there because of the spectra’s lighter weight. I like em all. Like surfboards they all offer a slightly different experience and lend themselves to slightly different tendencies in play. I’m usually using the maple or UN lately. 
4 Likes
Didn’t you break and then re-purpose your ash eH? 
That is fantastic!
1 Like
This Friday I’m throwing this vintage Humingbird Trickster in the Purple/Mint/Pink laminate Spectra Ply. 25 years ago this is what a premium wood fixed axle looked like from the local mall. Even today this is a solid 55 gram throw with a 56mm diameter. The classic Imperial shape is now consider old school but it does have advantages for modern 0A play as it holds stall loops really well for flip suicide variations. It also excels in loops and regens as you would expect.
13 Likes
that is a fine looking yoyo!
2 Likes