I believe that’s only the case with newer models.
And having just checked my Mr. Butcher, 2011 Clash, and ReClash, only the Clash has the ano chips.
Okay. Can you take a picture of the chip on your red Take That so I can see what I’m looking for?
I don’t have it anymore, sorry 
When bootlegs first arrived, chips were part of what we checked first to identify fake Sleips
Alrighty. I’m not sure how big it should be.
It’s about as big as the tip of a pen. The ano chip should also be visible on both halves of the yoyo.
^
It’s big enough, you don’t need to look for it
Ah. Okay if this run of the Take That Sleipnirs had a chip, it’s a fake
i believe that run did have a chip
Just looked over it again, and there is no chip and it does have tiny record type grooves. So, it’s fake…What’s retail on it? I probably won’t get rid of it because I still love it, but I traded kinda high for it, a MMN and Victory for this and $40.
@NathanC, just got word that Laser will be priced the same as Draupnir.
According to Kengo, this one spins longer than Draupnir.
Retail ranges from around 120 to like 50.
Most recent picture I posted looks slightly more bimetal-like like the Draup, so makes sense. Very excited.
Was hoping for solid aluminum, just to keep the price lower. Oh well, it still looks too good to pass on.
120 for a bootleg?
YYR bootlegs aren’t really sought after and since they are a bootleg they range from $20-$40 dollars in resell value. Regardless of that, one of the bst rules forbids any bootlegs from being sold/traded. So basically because of that it has little to no resell value.
Not looking for resale really, just retail. It plays so good, I would have never thought it was bootleg. Dead smooth. I now really want some YYR!
Tiny record-type grooves are a good thing, not bad. All of my YYR have very small machining marks that form the shape. Each subsequent groove is just a fraction smaller. This is precision machining without a final polish or smoothing.
From the ratfacedudguy’s thread on YYR authentication:
“Authentic YYRs always have a good machining grain on them unless they had been refinished aftermarket, and thus will not have a surface that you could in good conscience classify as “reflective.” This is one of the many things that can be attributed to the usage of 6000 series aluminum on the fakes, whereas the real ones are always made from high quality 7075 aluminum alloy. A quick way to test if you’re not quite sure is to take your fingernail and scrape it on the surface of the catch zone with your fingernail parallel to the direction of the inner and outer edges of the wings. You’ll literally be able to feel the grain of the machine lines on an authentic one, accompanied by an audible scraping noise. If you aren’t sure that you can feel or hear it, or you have to try overly hard to get any results, chances are it’s not real.”
I am not sure that I can call this a fake yet. What is the weight?
^ As Geezer points out, I think that the weight will be the biggest indicator.
Lets face it, cosmetics (ano/engraving) aside, the shape and size of most of these bootlegs are 99% identical to an authentic. Therefore, the only real tangible difference will be in the aluminium used, and therefore there should be a weight difference.
Otherwise, lets face it, if it’s the exact same shape/size as an authentic, and weighs the exact same amount (meaning it’s made in 7075), then it might as well be an authentic, because it’ll play exactly the same.
^^^ At that point it would be a replica, not a bootleg; right?
If it walks like a Duck; and quacks like a Duck… its a Duck.
To me a bootleg is an unauthorized replica attended to pass itself off as an original.
A replica is any copy, and could be legit or not. There can be both bootleg and legit replicas.