Dude! Very awesome stuff. Also, the first time I’ve seen anyone doing similar gt stalls to the ones I do outside of the FAF thread. Love it man! Keep ‘em comin’!
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I’m a sucker for green triangles. I think it started with two of my favorite unresponsive tricks, Ninja Vanish (just a slack whip into a GT) and And Whut (Boulay sig trick? Could be wrong).
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Flying Lemon v1 is now a dedicated fixed axle yoyo 
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Planning on buying a production one when it’s available so I gotta know how you fixied it? Did my blank fit or did you have to mod it?
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It’s your blank! I’ve noticed they don’t sit exactly flush on the bearing seat, but as long as you’re careful screwing it together, it works perfectly! Just need a shorter axle.
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Okay, I recorded like 4 more vids today–I don’t want to give away my whole hand here–but here’s Egyptian Rollercoaster! My version of an old favorite, McBride rollercoaster.
This time using my new Ardeus Stroller yoyo!
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Is there any benefit to applying lube to the steel axle of fixed axle yoyo? I am unsure if lubes are solely for bearings or if they have some benefit (or negative effect) on the axle/string interaction. Thanks,
Some people like to use beeswax or bee lip balm to add a little response. I prefer to do this on wood; I don’t really like how it doesn’t soak into metal or plastic. That said I only really take out the beeswax when a wood throw is truly unresponsive and hasn’t been tunable by string thickness, breaking in, or double or triple looping.
I would recommend using other means of adjusting response. If it’s a Butterfly I recommend trying double looping. I played them this way for a while.
Edit: I guess I didn’t really answer your question. Some thicker lubes may impact response, but I’d recommend against it.
I tune all of my fixed axles that I make with one drop of thick lube applied to the end of the string. I make very thin 4mm stainless axle yo-yos and they will often just kinda spin forever without a response unless you add the lube.
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I have never used any lube/wax/goo/etc EXCEPT in the case of really rough wood axles. Back in the day, wax and other stuff would be used to protect axles which were more prone to damage through friction due to their roughness (which obviously ALSO protects the string). Even after the Duncan demonstrator days of the 60s/70s Russell and Proyo axles could be pretty rough and players would use a bit of Vaseline Intensive Care Lip Therapy (or other similar stuff) to “cure” them and some companies would sell string with a little dab of red wax.
To me, the axles I use (mainly Tom Kuhn, TMBR, and other modern wood) are of hard enough and smooth enough birch/walnut that this is thoroughly unnecessary and results in weird response effects or unpredictability. I don’t see any reason to use anything like that on a steel axle, and feel like perceived improvements in play there could be subject to confirmation bias. If anything, introducing one more variable to the string/gap/response/axle equation gives me one more thing to think about - no thanks. I’ve never had any issues with response consistency which couldn’t be addressed through my own play or through managing string tension (torsion - god I hate that word, I don’t care if it’s accurate lol).
I guess - how is it you want your steel axles to play, and what are they NOT doing which they would do better using some kind of lubricant?
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Hey Ed,
Thanks for the thorough response. It looks like I am going to pass on lubing for fixed axle.
Regarding your question back to me…I’m just a n00b in the yoyo space and have some lubes on the shelf i purchased but haven’t used for anything yet as I haven’t explored setting up hardware beyond how to change strings. I was solely curious if there was any improvement to be had with lube and if leaving “dry” was leaving any performance be it sleep time, response, etc. on the table. It sounds like that’s not the case…which as you stated is good news. Occam’s razor!
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Gotcha - yeah big fan of Occam lol!
Keep asking q’s as 0A peeps are pretty free w their perspectives. Glad you’re exploring this weird little niche and hope you find it satisfying!
Here’s something I’ve been doing. Has anyone done this before?
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Nice man! It’s been done but not with the rhythm/style you’re using. That’s a variation of what gets called Doubke-Plus Regens. Functionally a Planet Hop but obv they feel very different in context and enable you to go right back to the original polarity/direction/mount! The basic one is the 2nd one i show off trapeze stall, but your 1.5 version has way more steez.
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Great info and video! Thank you!
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Kwyjibo on the purple heart blood cell
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Finally getting a feel for the lunar
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What’s the deal with string! I’m throwing lots of old 70s,80s,90s fixed steel axle buterflys during FAF. I am using kitty fat pro line and some generic no name polyester strings that came with my Yoyo beginners pack from ■■■■■■■■■■.com. Im also experimenting with cotton.
Some times after a few hours of play the strings become either waaaay more responsive (won’t sleep or return nearly immediately if I throw a breakaway) or sometimes even unresponsive…I’m tugging and watching the 70s butterfly hop up and down but not come back to me. FWIW I am checking and doing sidewinders both sides to manage the tension and ensure it’s “neutral” when drawing conclusions.
What are some good rules of thumb for steel fixed axle throws and strings? Is it normal to change strings every couple hours, days, weeks? Are older fixed axles more sensitive than modern unresponsive or response throws?
I’m just baffled. Is often string changing a necessity or a preference? Does it even matter ir is it all psychological? Just hit me with some info please. I’m new and confused but fixed axle friends seem alot more finicky than my more modern throws. Thanks in advance.
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Tailspin Slack and Kickflip Tailspin Repeater - Fixed Axle Yoyo Tutorial
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