Strings and whatnot

General Yo-Yo
1

I thought I would list some pro’s and con’s of the different types of strings out there and the materials used.
I won’t go into individual company strings, but I thought it would be helpful to know how each material and each type of twist works with your yoyo.

Type 6 and Type 8.

There are two major kinds of string twist in the yoyo string world right now.
Type 6 and Type 8. The number refers to the ply of strings with the number of folds to create the final twisted strings.
So type 6: ||| twisted, then folded in half, 3x2=6
Type 8 being: |||| twisted, then folded in half, 4x2=8
I have also seen a 1x12 created as well.

Type 6 is thinner than type 8. For 1A play, this creates a huge difference. Type 6 is less responsive due to the string being thinner, thus creating less friction on the side walls of the yoyo and response.
Type 8 is thicker, and this results in more response, and also tighter binds for regenerations.
For 4A, the same is applied, type 8 tends to be better for regens but also creates snags easier.
For 2A, the thicker string will make loops quicker, and also loop downward which many players seek, but due to the thicker string combined with a small gap, spin times are sacrificed.

Materials:

Cotton: The most traditional yoyo string. The original. This string tends to be cheaper as cotton is a cheaper material to use. Good budget string. Issue though is that this string reacts to humidity. Cotton soaks in moisture and can leave a string feeling quite grimy in certain conditions. For fixed axle yoyos, cotton string is a must and I will go into this more in detail in a bit.

Polyester: The standard for most yoyo players today. A bit more expensive than the cotton string, but plays much more slick and tends to have brighter colors. This string does not react to humidity as much and has a decent lifetime. This string is not to be used for fixed axle yoyos as they can melt due to the friction. This also applies to many 2A yoyos as well, specifically 2A yoyos that use starburst for response such as raiders and unleashed.

50/50 blend: A mix of Poly and Cotton. A bit more abrasive than Poly but not as abrasive as Cotton. This is prime string for 2A as it will not melt as 100% poly, but will play slick as 100% poly would.

Nylon: A highly slick string that is heavier than poly and cotton. This string is great for slacks as its weight allows for greater flow and more effortless whips. This string plays very slick and tends to last for a very long time. The issue with this string is that it tends to not hold string tension very well, which could be bad for suicide tricks. Most nylon string is also quite a bit thinner than cotton and poly strings, so using these for 4A and 2A would not be recommended.

Now of course there are many other obscure materials that you may find in strings. Kevlar, string metal, gold fibers, etc. But those 3 materials are the most common you will see. Now there are many blends of such string in the market today. Based on what you know, you can deduce how a string might play by taking into account what blends the company is using in their string.

On that note, hopefully now you can choose a string that suits your needs based on the materials and ply that I have listed.

Keep throwing.

Fox out.

J
:slight_smile:

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2

Isn’t Kitty String 1x10 [at least Normal]? Since everyone’s hopping on the Kitty String bandwagon [not saying it’s bad, but it’s becoming more common lately] you should also mention 1x10, if I’m not mistaken, it is also called Brazilian.

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This is meant to be a basic list, It would take forever to go into detail of all kinds of blends and ply’s, meant to be a general take on the most common string types for newer throwers.

J

1 Like
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Pretty good read. This is something I think everyone, especially newer throwers, should look into.

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this should be stickied

6

Just to clarify, the 2 does not refer to the string being folded in half in the number system.

Let’s take a Type 6 string. You cut it and unfold. Take the unfolded string and untwist it. You should have 3 strands, which is the first number. Now take each of those strands and untwist them, they are each made up of 2 thinner strands, which is the second number = 3 x 2.

From this, a Type 9 would be divided into 3 strands, with each of those strands being made up of a further 3 thinner strands. Type 10 is usually 10 x 1, but could also be made up as 5 x 2. Similarly, if you took 6 strands and wound them together, and then folded it in half, you would also have a Type 6 string (6 x 1).

7

Im not sure about that one actually.

I had heard from a pretty well known string maker that the 2 refers to the fold in the number system, which actually makes sense when you consider it.

The ||| folded makes 6, as the 8 would be a |||| by two making 8.

I have been around for a while and have learned quite a bit in string creation, so the workings of how they are done are not new to me.

J

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Cool to know. I’ve been messing with making my own string, have a large spool of poly (feels very smooth almost like kite string, lasts forever, slacks pretty good), and have 4000 yards of Kevlar thread which feels a lot rougher and stiffer. It is also very slippy if I go 100%, depending on response.

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Actually no, it doesn’t make sense, as it doesn’t explain Type 9 (3x3), or Type 10.

Here’s what yoyowiki says:
…The numbers in brackets refers to the number of strands in the yo-yo string. For example, type 8 consists of four strands each composed of two smaller strands of string. …

You are not alone.  I’m not trying to cause any friction, but this is always how I’ve understood it.  I’m sure someone with more knowledge and experience will chime in and clarify.

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I’ve pulled apart a type 6 and found 3 strands and those strands consisted of 2 smaller strands.

11

Looking for a longer string… I’m 6’2" so I can’t use plutonium or zipline strings, but I still want something along those lines that’s good for whipping. I had for the longest been using kitty fat but find myself disappointed with this if I use the shorter string; either plutonium or zipline (performance).

Please point me in the right direction…

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12

From @Markmont directly you can get up to 65" long

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Had a markmont string a year back, I really wasn’t a fan it was too much like a cord, but I’m a bit more seasoned now…

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They are definitely ment for daily player hands and you need some calluses, but they also last a long time.

1 Like
15

I’m 6’2" also, do you also feel like the “bellybutton to floor” string measuring technique leaves the string feeling slightly shorter than how it looks for other throwers in tutorials and videos? I’ve been thinking that I should experiment by trimming less and less from the new strings I use as time goes on.

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Whatever the truth is with the string type designations, the material portion of your post is really useful. I’ve been wondering for awhile what exactly are the benefits and uses between each material and size of string. Thanks for the info and for helping newer throwers like myself. Cheers

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Pretty sure @BadWolfeCo strings are on the longer side. Their poly/nylon blend is whippy enough and an overall solid string. Their fully nylon string is super whippy and really long lasting.

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I do not tie the string close to my belly button at all. I am about 5 foot 8 and I tie the string near my chest. I use super long strings, but it also varys a few inches for different throws. I tend to use longer strings for undersized throws.

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19

These string “types” might have once been the standard, but the original post is from 2012. Times change.

The biggest problem with a “type 6” “type 8” etc system is that thread comes in all different thicknesses, called “weights.” One string maker might use Tex 27 polyester, while another might use Tex 37, and if they both use 6 strands of thread then the resulting strings will be drastically different thicknesses. Also there are different ways of making thread that will affect the feel. For example, upholstery polyester thread will feel much rougher than even cotton, just because of how it’s made. But serger polyester thread is smoother. And even still, this depends on brand. I’ve tried threads from JoAnn’s, Walmart, Amazon, several varieties of threads from a quilt shop, and none of them fee exactly the same.

My point here is to dispel some common misinformation: “type 6” and “type 8” aren’t some common mandated standard that all strings adhere to. None of my strings are “type” anything. I sell strings with 3, 5, 7, 8 or 10 threads, depending on the material and thickness I want to achieve.

Also @Roy_Dodge is right my strings are about 58", I’m 6’1" and I cut about 6" off every string I use. I know some people like it longer but that’s more than enough for most.

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I used that measurement (belly button) of couple of times, it didn’t work for me. I tie the loop throw a couple of tricks, and if teh strings feels to long or short I change it (there seems to bee a sweet spot I don’t worry about inconsistency, you’ll intuit the right length for you the longer you play). With that said zipline strings and plutonium strings are too short for me :frowning: which sucks because they’re great for whipping… It seems like several of the pros like to keep their string longer then the belly button measurement too… If you watch yuuki spencer or even evan nagao it looks like they have a lot of string to work with. I assume for fancy tech tricks.

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