wow. In my opinion the 1st and 3rd are WAY better looking. Not digging the looks of the second. But that’s just me…
I don’t mind the looks so much, but i wonder if any play better? I.e. better response, spin etc
I’m guessing the later models will use the 10ball bearing, my t5 which is the 2nd edition only has an 8ball bearing and some lousy silicone response. Not sure whether the 3rd would have the same response as the n12 but I would hope so, it works so much better than any silicone pad.
I thought the one in the middle was the newest one
I think the middle one (which is what i have) has a 10 ball bearing (though i can’t check till i get home), but if that’s the latest one, then i’m pretty pleased. It does not have the same blue coloured response pads as my two n12s (my t5s have whitish pads).
The one in the middle (2nd ed.) is what I have and came with an 8ball koncaved bearing.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet (The picture is far to big to put onto the forum post)
Guys we should move the t5 discussion to the t5 thread, just so we can keep the information consolidated
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As did I, prior to lafalot’s post.
Btw. Which post is the ‘official’ t5 one we are moving this discussion to?
Start using that for any T5 discussions. It’s tzighy’s review on it.
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Hi
Can someone help me with my n12? i’m new to these types of yoyos and I have a few questions.
Firstly, when i unscrew it, the ballbearing is fixed to the side of the yoyo (not attached to the axel)- is this normal?
If it isn’t, should I somehow take it off and lubricate it? And if so, do i lubricate the sides of the yoyo?
Plz forgive my ignorance.
Edit: I just attached a photo so you can see what i mean 
Edit2: I found this thread through google, so i didn’t realise it wasn’t a discussion thread, sorry man
Nothing to apologize for, although having your own thread would give your question more visibility. 
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Yes, it’s totally normal for one side of the yoyo to have seat posts that “hold” the bearing more than the other. The axle itself holds the halves together, but the bearing is mounted on a “seat” that’s part of each half.
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Sometimes the bearing will come off just by grabbing it with your fingers and wiggling a bit. For more stubborn cases, put a 1/4" diameter tube into the middle of it-- they make “bearing removal tools” for this, but when all else fails you can use the dull side of a 1/4" drill bit (just make sure not to let the sharps edges of the “business end” hurt you!). Once inserted, wiggle back and forth in all directions… it can take some time but eventually you will feel the bearing loosening and then it will come off.
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Lube is a big point of misunderstanding in yoyos for novices. If you want MORE spin time, you probably want less lube. Most people end up with a dirty bearing and think they need to lube it to get it moving again, but this will cause your yoyo to become “tug responsive”. If that’s your scenario, what you actually want to do is remove and clean the bearing (better instructions elsewhere, but basically put it in a solvent like acetone and shake it all around then let it dry). Once dry, you can play the bearing immediately with no lube for max spin time. If you like a bit of lube to smooth it out or make it quieter (I do), use a TIIIIIiiiiiiny amount. And even then you will probably have to play it a while to break it in before it’s truly unresponsive.
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Thanks for that great, detailed response! ;D
My initial thought was it was supposed to be like that, but i began to think it might just be stuck lol, thanks for clearing that up.
And I was aware that lubricant would reduce spin time, i just wasn’t sure if i was causing damage to either the bearing, the yoyo or the axel with out it. It spins great, i just didn’t want to damage anything!
I basically have no need to take the bearing off anytime soon, right?
If it’s working, don’t take it off! Totally normal for it to be a little stuck like that.
If you decide to lube, you can add it over the “shield”, but it’s better to expose the balls themselves by removing the shield. There are instructions for this and other maintenance tasks here:
You won’t have to worry about shields… The bearing in the N12 comes unshielded.
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Depends on where you get it.
I recently won an N12 at PA States and love it! Anyone else think it plays exactly like a slightly heavier BvM2?
^ yes
Love my n12 best $15 ever spent … Totally keeps up with my code2
I play mine over my code 2 because if I lose it, i can get another one for about a third of the price of a code 2.
How does the N12 compare to the Shutter ?
The N12 is more H-shaped, where-as the Shutter is more of a V
The Shutter really opens up with a CenterTrac. The N12 might need a bearing cleaning or a new bearing, as you may get a crap bearing.
The stock pads with the Shutter are fine. The stock pads in the N12 can range from “fine” to “need replacing”. Both can use the same response pads or can be siliconed.
The Shutter is better for those finger-spin grinds due to the shape of the rim, especially the cup in the center for it. The N12 lacks this.
The n12 has a surface treatment and is an OK grinder. The blasted Shutter is a great grinder. The smooth Shutter is not a good grinder at all.
The N12 costs around $30, where the Shutter can run $45. Depending on where you get it from, you can get the N12 for cheaper. Shipping on the N12 from Ebay sellers can test your patience as 21 days is NOT unusual for shipping from China
I am preferential to V shapes. I also think that as awesome as the N12 is(it plays 2.5 to 3 times it’s cost at $30 in my opinion), I feel the Shutter is the superior of the two. The N12 is still really good, probably of Magic YoYo’s best offerings to date. I feel that the T5 is also up there. Most Magic YoYos could use a bearing cleaning/swap and/or a response replacement.
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