I design all my 3D printed yoyos to be printed at 100% infill. Not sure if that is of any help though.
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Most of the unresponsives I’ve printed have been a bit vibey. I think designing bigger diameter and wider help a lot, as well as focusing on tight hardware fit.
Why does bigger diameter and wider help?
Makes the whole throw more stable.
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Last one from. Forgive the mess, I’m printing for speed and fit testing. This is an MR85 printed Butterfly. It needs some design iteration but overall happy with play. The response is maybe a bit more slippery than I’d like, but I’m going to iterate on the printed response a little before I go for silicone.
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I am far too proud of this jig I designed for gluing TMBR axles.
One thing I’ve always done by hand is attempt to line up the threads so the axle would go cleanly through a half. With this jig, I won’t have to eyeball it anymore.
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Brown Print TMBR Axels???
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Those look fantastic
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Yes. As a spoiler I should have one available tomorrow.
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The way those screws are you would end up with a really wide gap if you were trying to convert an existing yoyo to fixed with that design. A new design that accounted for all that extra width would work.
There is also this which doesn’t physically connect to the side effect.
And I’ve 3d printed similar blanks for side effect throws. Basically the side effect tightens enough that the blank doesn’t free spin, at least in most designs.
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I was thinking maybe a yoyo designed around it. Maybe shortening the screws if needed… idk it’s all over my head 
just thought I would throw it out there in case I somehow stumbled upon an idea that could be of any use to anyone.
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My mom bought one of these at a craft fair and my son is obsessed with it lol
Definitely could be a fun project. Would probably have to make the center post out of metal as plastic will strip too easily, or you could use heat inserts into a printed part. But thinking about it now, someone probably already manufactures the part you need if you poke around digikey. Like I found this with a search for m4 threaded standoff
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I think the one gotcha would be the thread direction. By adding a third set of threads you are reversing the direction one half screw in… I think? Spacial reasoning isn’t my forte but I think that’s the case. Would have to test it and see if that affects things like vibration, or does it unscrew itself during rotation etc.
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Maybe loctite one side, if that’s the case… idk, definitely over my head
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I’ve been looking at maybe using brass bushings for a metal axle take apart 3D printed fixie.
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