depends a little what you want to use it for but in general you can go wrong with anything from Prusa or Bambu.
Can or can’t?
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Can’t go wrong. But apparently I can’t type.
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Most slicers will give you stats on how much filament will be used for a print and you can use that to predict the weight. Then adjust infill % and number of perimeters and top/bottom to attain your desired weight.
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I guess a warning here is check the density of your filament. Most are about 1.34 grams per cc but some filaments are heavier or lighter and if you have a really specific goal weight you will want to set the density in the slicer.
Working on getting the scale and weight close to perfect on these then will have a better idea for doing our own design(s) that we’re working on.
First one in the Slam Dunk is the normal full scale. Printed at over 12 grams and was close to size of our light up Moth Ballz.
Will be good starting point and can at least make them for personal use in the meantime.
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HI all, i have been working a lot in my main work.
but i finally got time to release my last yoyo for 2024!
Have fun and a early Merry Christmas
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My 3D printer and I have been working extra hard these past 2 weeks.
The yoyos in the front are currently on their way to customers from the US, UK, and Germany, while those at the back are for a local contest taking place at the end of the month.
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If you get bored do one where the infill makes a pretty picture when it’s spinning lol. Looks great.
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I was thinking of trying to make it look like stitching. This infill was just generated by the slicer.
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That would be really cool! Gyroid stitching almost has that chunky sweater kind of line to it.
Just did my first 3D printed design with an Engineer Friend
Specs are ~ 42 x 57mm, came out to about 75g with printing with a lot of infill, somehow it came out way heavier than expected, the supposed weight was supposed to be ~30g per half, so IDK where all the extra weight came from.
For V2, we’re going to try and make the outside edge less sharp, and reduce the weight a little bit while distributing the infill more evenly throughout the body.
Any ideas for how to reduce vibe with these? That’s the main major issue right now. It’s manageable, but requires a lot of tuning.
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I would start with infill. You honestly don’t need much if any and if it’s somewhat chaotic distribution could affect where the weight is.
What’s the response system and bearing? Or is it a fixed axle?
So I’ve printed not a ton of yoyos in the past but a dozen or so. My advice for vibe would be (assuming you are using a bolt and nut) make it as tight as possible. Make it as hard as possible to put in the bolt without it being impossible. The tighter the fit the better. Also I doubt this helps much but the bearing area post should be like this:
And not this:
Size C, 19mm. Using an m4 * 16 nut and bolt assembly.
So it’s better to to lean towards less in-fill than more basically?
Yeah the hole for the axle is pretty tight, IDK if I could make it any tighter with having to like use mallet or something to get the axle through the hole. Also I did notice that the tighter it is screwed together that tends to help to a point, but then it gets worse again.
I believe my bearing seat looks closest to the top photo (without the angle) so I don’t think that’s the problem.
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More like you need it to be as symmetrical as possible.
Ok that makes sense… I think my friend’s engineer brain got excited because he said he biased the infill towards the edges as sort of an internal weight ring thing. We’ll go as even as possible on round two.
More solid bottom layers would accomplish the weight distribution in a more even manner.
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