ArcWelder produces G02 and G03 commands in ur GCode and this is not supported on every firmware. So the results vary depending on ur machine setup. If you run a modern Marlin it makes definitely a difference. It depends on your topology and resolution for the slicer and it’s interpretation of the data. The gcode itself is definitely better for your motors because it prevents shutter.
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Anyone used any transparent filaments that they would recommend? Looking to make a clear spherical object. It’ll have to be fairly strong and food safe. Ideas?
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Here is a cool video about using threaded inserts for 3D printing. He heats them up with a soldering iron and slides them into slightly undersized hole. Made for a strong connection.
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For my latest project, I decided to design and print my own dice tower. I don’t want anything elaborate, or anything that will take up very much space. I only want it to be big enough to maybe roll 3D6 at once. My design consists of a bottom tray piece upon which one can stack any number of tumbler sections.
To verify my design concept, I ran an RBD simulation of three dice dropping through a tower composed of a tray and two tumbler sections:
I am printing the parts now and plan to line the insides with felt so as to dampen the noise of dice tumbling through the tower.
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Is this for gaming? What exactly will you use it for?
Yes, gaming. Any time you need to roll dice but don’t have a convenient surface to roll them on, a dice tower can come in very handy.
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I made this a while back during the lockdown and I think it came out pretty well. It’s just an expendable case that I made to hold my yoyo for carrying. I think it was okay but had some trouble getting the one side to come out smooth on the support side. It required a lot of time with side snips, pliers, sandpaper, and files to get it to fit together but came out well. I might try again once I get my resin printer up and running. I used an Anycubic 4max Pro to print this.
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I’m surprised nobody has mentioned using a 3d printing service yet. I’ve been using shapeways to do my 3d prints so I don’t have to worry about the actual print coming out good and it’s significantly cheaper than buying a nice printer and you don’t have to deal with chemicals. I included the link for it and an image of one of my print jobs. They also print in an aluminum that weighs about the same as 6061 aluminum that I’ve been tempted to try.
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I thought about designing my own yoyo since I have Inventor Pro through my school. If I was to I was thinking of making a 3d printed titanium yoyo using Shapeways.
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Version 6 of yoyo “guts” prototype underway. Version 1-5 all had issues. Getting closer though. Anybody wanna share a 3D printed yoyo guts file? 
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The only yoyo “guts” I have for 3D printing is geometry for holding side effects.
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I’d love to take a look at those if you care to share! I’ll send you the file of my final axle version when I get one that works.
What format would you like? (And where to send it?)
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PM’d!
Printing “guts” prototype #10 at the moment. Getting very close now! It’s amazing how different the dimensions had to be to account for printing tolerances as compared to @MarkD ’s tutorials for designing a metal yoyo.
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Are you testing with multiple bearing types? You’d be surprised at the variation in tolerances between different types or even different batches of the same bearings.
And that multi-color printed yoyo looks really nice! 
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It looks pretty wide.
That’s one thing that frustrated me when I tried 3D printing my own yoyo design (last year). In order for it to come in over 60g, I had to make it really big and thick, which made it tough to push most of the weight out to the rims while keeping the overall size (especially the width) manageable. It’s hard to make a rim-weighted 56mm x 44mm yoyo from photopolymer resign that weighs more than 50g.
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