I did use supports and was actually thrilled with how they removed. The cup is a tiny bit messy. I made a last minute change to slope up the base of the cup to the cap to keep the cap in place and make it easier to remove burrs and imperfections (I couldn’t do it at all on the flat bottomed cup).
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That makes sense. It looks great. I imagine the wobble is mostly in how the gets align. Need to make sure the seat for the guts areas flat as possible as that’s where your heavy vibe will come in similar to how the alebrije can have terrible vibe if the two halves line up crooked between the spacers.
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Throwing The Brute v2 today. Added a slight taper. Way more forgiving. Love the red.
Unfortunately, my printer is temporarily out of action. I’m under extruding everything. I’ve been working for a day to diagnose and can’t find the source. I’ve changed the nozzle, adjusted extruder, calibrated e steps, auto leveled, and no changes. I suspect I maybe have a clog (I haven’t replaced the Bowden tube or hot end fully) or maybe a broken extrusion gear or motor. Any tips would be appreciated 
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Since you already did a lot of things I have two to check for you which I have seen a lot in the past. First ist the hot end does not get warm enough, second if you are in a wet environment filament sucks up water from the air and that also leads to miss prints which very much look like under extrusion. If you post an example pic is always helpful for these diagnoses.
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I would start by removing nozzle and Bowden tube from hot end. Then while everything is hot I would run a piece of Bowden tube through the entire hotend a few times to clean it out. Check the end of the Bowden tube for clog also.
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I will give this a try. I’m not sure what material my Bowden tube is but I suppose it must be able to take the heat…
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PTFE usually. It’s essentially Teflon so don’t heat it over 240 c or it’ll off gas which is not great but 220 should be fine for cleaning pla out
If this doesn’t fix check your extruder gears. If it’s stock brass it may be worn and slipping and you’ll need to replace with steel and or increase spring tension with a spacer to get a better “bite” on the filament.
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Diamondback Nozzle~Game Changer.
Ton of excellent reviews on Diamondback nozzles.
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I suspect the extruder because the whole printer sounds grindy. I looked at the filament and I see the teeth marks and they look ok based on examples I see online.
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Bowden tube and hot end were super clogged. I think I’ve cleaned everything well. Let’s see how I reassemble it 
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chalk all this up to learning your machine. i had to do something similar after a thermal event a few months back. it was tedious but i now can visualize how the stupid thing works.
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The trick to reassemble is:
Screw in new nozzle, but leave it a little bit loose (like half a turn)
Insert bowden tube into hot end and push down firmly and hold.
While holding Bowden tube down against the nozzle, tighten up the nozzle the rest of the way.
This will help get a good seal between nozzle and Bowden tube.
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I tried to do this. I guess I wasn’t firmly holding the tube when I did the second nozzle tightening; I had just clipped it into place…
Do you anything pre sliced which came with the machine? Just to make sure your slicer settings are not screwed for some reason? Where you able to test the temperature with an external device?
I have not done this yet. The bed temperature worked for prints with this surface prior. I suppose it’s possible that changed…
I received the machine secondhand and don’t have anything pre-sliced IIRC.