Overhangs are your enemy either avoid them, change the design to have 45degree slopes instead or use supports or print stupid slow. On that layer.
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You could chamfer the edges of the notch and it will print cleaner.
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I’m excited for this new orca feature to hide z seams
Release OrcaSlicer V2.0.0 Beta Release · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer · GitHub scarf joints!
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I saw that the other day. Very exciting. I bet it’ll be in all the slicers soon.
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This weekend was printing for the printer. I dislike these prints because I don’t know what will work out and what’s pointless till I try some of them but I figure it won’t hurt to print some junk pla in the roughest lowest quality I can and if they aren’t terrible then print these in petg at a better quality for aesthetics and then they won’t melt…
edit:
the roller and filament arm already feel like valuable additions.
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I now dub this weight “The 45”. Everything is 45° angles. I’m pretty happy with everything except maybe the alignment of the knurling. I might go for a different texture as it’s a smaller surface, but I do think I’m going to shelve this design for a little bit and work on other things.
I got my raspberry pi kit in today, so I’m probably going to start setting that up and maybe printing an enclosure to mount on the printer.
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Well today has been an adventure in not printing. I got an octopi unit running pretty quickly but it requested I update the firmware on the printer and that was an odyssey. First print running now but tomorrow I need to hook up the pi cam.
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If you want to take good captures of your prints I would def recommend installing this here. The default octo recorder is mmmhh.
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Well, here it is, my first modeled and printed yo-yo. I’ve tentatively named this one “The Pixie.” It’s Butterfly shaped with fingerspin dimples and a 1/4” wooden axle. I left the top layer open to make a response system on the inside. Right now it’s press fit together but I’ll probably glue it eventually. Comes in a little light at 42g. I like it a little heavier. I have a few tweaks to make; the edges are too sharp and the dimples too pointy, but all in all I think it’s a pretty good rookie outing.
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I designed and 3D printed a bearing mount and a cap to turn PX3 knob for a juggling club into a counterweight. I’m brand new to 5A so I have nothing else to compare it to, but it feels good so far and doesn’t hurt that much. I recall the mass being around 12g.
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Here’s my second attempt. I’ve lost my 1/4” dowel stock somewhere so I’m sharing my one axle 
Its basically right on the shape. 46g, edge is soft enough to play (but might round it just a tiny bit more), dimple is very good. I think I need to print one more with response holes to see if I prefer it.
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Today I’m upgrading to dual z and added gantry supports. And some of the prints I made but some didn’t survive my toddler messing with them
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Printed a 6 hole response (on the right). Still testing it with a plastic horizontally printed axle. I think I personally prefer the original response, but the weight on this one is a nicer 53g. The outer edge came out a little worse with a larger fillet and concentric bottom layer infill. I might go with the sharper just for cleanliness.
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Lookin good. Sometimes lots of small chamfers print better than fillets. 
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I investigated after I printed and I think I accidentally enabled supports (I was trying to print an axle with it) and so I think the rough edge is because it decided to add a tiny bit of support material that is proving difficult to remove 
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I’m also toying with the idea of flipping the print to do an engraving or design on the face, which I think would help with the fillet.
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Newest print of The Pixie is on the right. A few things went well and a few things didn’t. This is my first print response holes down. The holes came out just fine. I added a 2ish mm rim, which I like. I tried a subtle inscription (it should say “try catch throw”) which, in addition to not coming out at all, creates some printing artifacts around the inscription that I don’t really care for as it looks way less clean. Rather than reworking the inscription I think I’m going to abandon it. I also accidentally closed the fingerspin dimples, so I need to re-do those.
I have designed some tools to press fit the whole assembly together. Press fitting a horizontally printed axle is actually working rather well; the halves haven’t separated at all in the older print and I carried it yesterday in my work bag.
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I wonder if the friction from the string is enough to heat and deform a printed axle during play with hard throws?
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Hard to tell peeking into the gap.
I did pick up some 1/4” and 5/16” dowel stock over the weekend for making axles; I just haven’t gotten around to it yet.
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Hasn’t yet but if that’s a concern then the response area would be a concern too.
I imagine it could deform but petg would be the solution if pla is a problem.