YoYoJam walls?


I don’t know why YoYoJam started doing this, but have you noticed how some of their Solid Spin yo-yos have a ridge between the response and the bearing giving it a smaller gap there than the rest of the wall outside the response? See the ridges in the picture below.

I really hate this feature because it often adds friction to the spin and adds extra “response” or grabbiness, especially when the string is not new. Some of their yo-yos have this, some don’t.

My question for modders is whether anyone can cleanly shave down the ridges between the bearing and the response to be even with the wall outside the response. This is a very, very sensitive area, so I’m sure it has to be done very, very cleanly and carefully.

Anyways, I’m interested to hear from the experienced modder community. I have a Cerberus and Hitman Pro I’m interested in “fixin”. Possibly an SFX too, but I don’t really notice the problem with it as much and it plays great the way it is.


Of course if anyone can explain the advantage of the ridge, let me know too. The only advantage may be that it keeps the string away from the response pads when the grooves are not deep enough to allow recessed or flush response, but I’d rather do that with a specialized bearing (if at all).


A large number of manufacturers have gone to this design. It allows you to run a larger “gap” than than the bearing actually is, or nearing such a width, without fear of string slippage. Have you ever seen yo-yos with 5.0mm gaps? They use this design because a C bearing is only 4.75mm wide. However, exaggerating this design, can cause loose binds.

Cutting that lip down is not going to do any good. If anything, it will only give you string slippage.


Not sure what you mean by string slippage. Getting stuck between the bearing and the bearing seat? I figure the lip can be shaved down some without this problem; it seems like the exposed bearing is relatively narrow and still has enough width underneath to it to prevent that. Though I will be sure to double check that!

Not sure if I can explain the spin loss I get on my Cerberus and HMP other than that lip. Cerberus is huge, with lots of rim weight, and it seems like the relatively narrow exposed bearing area is the problem. Maybe I’m playing sloppy and the string starts to wind, but I’d rather not have that lip for the layers to rub against. None of my other YYJ yo-yos seem to have this problem. Once again, I’ll double check that there’s enough bearing underneath.

What other manufacturers use this design?

Edit: On second thought, I should also check whether the pads are recessed, flush, or sticking out, and by how much. Maybe the exposed bearing only seems narrower than other yo-yos…

(UmeNagisa) #4

meaning the binds wont be tight

and/ or it could be harder to bind


And / or harder to get good spin on a throw.


Guys, I don’t think that’s what mcrnja means by string slippage. I think what you’re talking about is what he means by “exaggerating this design can cause loose binds”.


mrcnja is referring to the string slipping between the bearing and the shell. That lip is meant to keep that from happening. Remove it and you will experience first hand the feelings had by anti-yo eetsit owners. :wink:

That lip does not impact gap size or spin time.


Are you referring to string eating?

My Metropolis had that problem. Duncan replaced it. Good folks over at Duncan.


I’ve done it to several of my yoyos lol, still works fine.


Its not that hard to do ether, I could do it on my drill press.


I think that lip is virtually pointless unless you’re trying to achieve a bigger gap without string slippage. That’s not the case with Cerberus and HMP. See the comparison between Cerberus and Superstar below? The exposed bearing is very narrow on Cerberus.

You’re right, the lip doesn’t affect the gap size. However in this case, the only thing the lip does is add friction when string layers are added. There should be plenty of hidden bearing underneath to shave off at least most of the lip.

I’m encouraged that yoyospirit has done it and it works fine. Which ones have you done it to? Came out nice and clean?


just get some shims


That would cause looser binds. Plus I like the fact that the bearing is on an aluminum seat. But I have some and could try it; maybe it wouldn’t be too much looser. Thanks.


Feel free to remove it then.
Good luck.


Apologies if I sounded disrespectful. Your input is always valuable to me. Thanks.

Just gotta find a way to get it done right…


friction? lol Its not like its a starburst, there is no way that is going to cause significant slow down in rpms.
well this has been a norm in yoyos for some years, you can shim that gap, up too the width of the bearing. if the bearing is not all showing with out shims then you can cut down the lip.
the 08 or 07 888 had a full gap with that lip. you couldn’t shave down the lip any. that yoyo from yoyo jam could have it shaved down, or shimed open.


Well i could do it if you want, i have a drill press and i could test it on one of my yo-yos.


YES i tryed it on my yyf one and it worked just as he wanted it to the yoyo still plays normal but the gap is biger, its so cool.


You could just as easily remove it with a fine file, or an emery board for that matter. Not need for power tools. It’s really a simple task.

Ummm, no, the gap is not bigger. You just removed the small ridge at the bearing. The string gap is still the same size.


Strange my yyf one has it… Will a nail file get it off??