It looks like this:
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Yeah, I forwarded my design to Legyoyo so he could print it and hopefully test it for me
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Here are some photos of the delrin/plastic yoyos I had on hand. You can see all of them have hubs with posts that come through the body (though not all of them pop out easily, and I have no idea how the Vinyl is assembled) and they all use separate metal spacers for the bearing seat. The Banger/Vinyl and Serenade have interesting angled spacers, the T1 Captain has a more traditional stepped one.
Here’s a CAD of what they might look like on the inside. Colorized - blue is the hub/post, red is the spacer/seat. You can see how the bearing assembly’s inner race contacts each along a separate dimension, and that the outer race is completely free of any contact with anything except the ball bearings.
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Depending on how thin that wood is, you might be in for a disappointment. If it’s looser grain or softer wood, it’ll tend to crack.
You’ll need real dense, tight grain wood so it won’t just break during either the press or stress testing.
On top of that, it’ll warp if moisture gets in so it needs to be sealed.
Just don’t be super optimistic and it’ll most likely end up being a fun project, but if you go in hoping it’ll be killer you might be disappointed.
Looks killer btw! Let’s hope it’ll turn out ok 
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If someone made a wood/acrylic cast deal (like all those satisfying time-lapse youtube videos), then turned a couple fixie halves out of it, would it be just the worst playing, prettiest yoyo ever?
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If you’d get close with the halves, I’d think you could get a decent fixie out of it but I wouldn’t try to make a wider bearing yoyo out of it unless it’s just fo sho.
Maybe if you had precisely cut and epoxied parts you’d get something nice. Like routed cavities that you’d fill with epoxy and route out halves so they’d be as symmetric as possible.
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@RyoCanCan, good advice. I wish I had the expertise to explore actually making this, but for now it’s just a brain child. I thought I’d offer it to anyone who would want to explore it.
@adamantiumpops, I love that idea. Make a normal yo-yo half, fill a mold of resin tailored to the rim, dip, clean up edges, and presto.
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Beautiful! Looks kind of like the ODxILYY Sakura minus the side effects. What’re the dimensions?
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Oh yeah, I remember the Sakura. I really liked the shape & a certain colorway from the OG one i think? (edit: Nope, Sakura SE Colorway with Black, Blue & Gold) I might change the specs for this one though
D: 54mm
Wd: 42-ish mm
We:65-ish g
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The time’s close, gentlemen.
I just ordered a 3d printer like one above that’d most likely end up on my tinker table next tuesday, so I can start protoing more often and do more stuff on it for the forum to see.
Can’t wait 'til next week!
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I am tempted to make this design mostly for the colorway. Heavily inspired by the Arctic Circle 2nd Expedition
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Be careful… we have some “fans” of the AC2 around here… cough @moby323
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How much
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Hey I just got an alert on my phone, was someone talking about the Arctic Circle 2?
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220€. It ain’t too bad with good reviews, but small build volume (I don’t need much bigger than what the machine has for now)
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So uhhhhhhhh…
http://imgur.com/gallery/vu4tvWd
This is huge. And the hole for the bolt from the proyo is too small. Just gonna get a slimmer bolt. Second half should be ready tomorrow.
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The tolerance for 3D printing can be tricky to manage, so don’t feel bad, you’re off to a good start! If you have a drill (ideally a drill press, but you can free hand it) you could always make the bore slightly larger until the proyo bolt threads properly. Alternatively a smaller bolt works as well. Sanding will also help with the size and smoothness some, but that could throw off the weight distribution a smidge.
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The infill was low, so I fear absolutely destroying the bolt hole if I were to drill it out. We’ll see how the smaller bolt goes first THEN maybe destroy it, lol.
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