Hey Guys, a warning to everyone in this channel working with Manufacturers in China using paypal as a method of payment.
Ive reported this also in the Yoyo Designers Facebook group but wanted to do so here as well as I know a lot of people here are also in touch with Chinese manufacturers for their prototypes and first runs.
Myself and one of my machine shops discovered last week an email account phishing hack. This hack inserted fake but very similar email accounts between myself and my machine shop, with the aim of diverting funds I was planning to sending to pay for a production run. Switching out the machine shops legit paypal account to an alternative paypal fraudster email account.
They appear to have done this by working out my company email and that of my machinist and then sending us each social phishing messages posing as the other party. They succeeded to the extent that for a couple of days messages intended for my machinist and from my machinist back to me we’re actually going via this fraudster.
This fraudster then doctored emails and invoice documents from the machinist to divert paypal funds to a new account:
Galen@texas.com.hk Do not under any circumstances send funds to this paypal account.
Always double-check that the email address of your intended recipient is 100% character for character accurate. There was only one letter different in the email addresses myself and my machinist received. It appeared so legit that and it was only caught when I questioned the change of paypal account on a messaging app rather than email that we noticed the edits by comparing screenshots of the emails the machinist sent and the ones I received. Crisis averted for me, but do not get caught out.
Some take aways:
Always check the paypal address matches what you expect from the recipient.
Always have a secondary method of communication to verify comms, facebook messenger, wechat, whatsapp, SMS etc…
Always check the email of the recipient is an exact match to expectations.
If using Paypal- always use goods & services. This would provide buyer protection against this type of fraud.
Also, everyone, I consulted @Glenacius_K about a concept idea of bi material between wood and acetal. The only downside is looks (according to Glen), and the necessary skill for spin-ability. The idea is up for exploratory grabs. Thanks to both the materials having not too outrageous heat coefficients, the press fit convention would be temperature based (pretty common thing). I’m no wood or acetal expert, so I don’t know which would be better, but the idea was either heat the plastic for expansion, or chill the wood for contraction then slide it together and wait until the magic happens. (brown = wood, gray = acetal, arrow = press ledge)
Looks cool! I would be very interested in a throw like that.
As far as updates go, I am in queue on a friend’s printer. She got actual paying orders in yesterday so I can’t be mad (even though I want to be!) lol.
If you were going to do bi-material with wood, why not use metal rims? Also for this design, you’d want the interference area for the press fit to be longer - probably at least 3/4 the width of the rim. It looks just under 1/2 here.
@MarkD The reason was mostly just to branch off from metal. From my understanding, you’d need less special equipment to turn both those materials. Not that it’d outperform metals, but it’d combine what people love about wood, with what people love about Delrin. Good note about the interference, I wouldn’t recommend anyone copy that exactly and try and make it.
If you want more feedback on the CAD think a better way to press them together is to use a jig rather than including a ledge on the wooden part. Or at least angle the shelf up to meet the rim instead of having another flat part there.
Here are some photos of the delrin/plastic yoyos I had on hand. You can see all of them have hubs with posts that come through the body (though not all of them pop out easily, and I have no idea how the Vinyl is assembled) and they all use separate metal spacers for the bearing seat. The Banger/Vinyl and Serenade have interesting angled spacers, the T1 Captain has a more traditional stepped one.
Here’s a CAD of what they might look like on the inside. Colorized - blue is the hub/post, red is the spacer/seat. You can see how the bearing assembly’s inner race contacts each along a separate dimension, and that the outer race is completely free of any contact with anything except the ball bearings.
Depending on how thin that wood is, you might be in for a disappointment. If it’s looser grain or softer wood, it’ll tend to crack.
You’ll need real dense, tight grain wood so it won’t just break during either the press or stress testing.
On top of that, it’ll warp if moisture gets in so it needs to be sealed.
Just don’t be super optimistic and it’ll most likely end up being a fun project, but if you go in hoping it’ll be killer you might be disappointed.
If you’d get close with the halves, I’d think you could get a decent fixie out of it but I wouldn’t try to make a wider bearing yoyo out of it unless it’s just fo sho.
Maybe if you had precisely cut and epoxied parts you’d get something nice. Like routed cavities that you’d fill with epoxy and route out halves so they’d be as symmetric as possible.
@RyoCanCan, good advice. I wish I had the expertise to explore actually making this, but for now it’s just a brain child. I thought I’d offer it to anyone who would want to explore it.
@adamantiumpops, I love that idea. Make a normal yo-yo half, fill a mold of resin tailored to the rim, dip, clean up edges, and presto.
Oh yeah, I remember the Sakura. I really liked the shape & a certain colorway from the OG one i think? (edit: Nope, Sakura SE Colorway with Black, Blue & Gold) I might change the specs for this one though
D: 54mm
Wd: 42-ish mm
We:65-ish g
