Fusion360 Help?
Is there a way to ‘freeze’ a portion of a sketch and putz around with the rest? I want the hub/axle area to stay the same but every time I move a point, everything else gets distorted.
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I know in solid works it does the same. You have to find where you dissociate the points. For solid works you turn off certain relationships when you click on the point. Sorry I don’t know Fusion as well, hopefully that can help
Edit: I forgot to mention sanding will help with any sharpness and some with the size. If you have like 400-600 that’d be a good start. Wet sanding
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I had two of these biggies laying around
So I disassembled my PGM and took the spacers, axle,and nuts, open fusion and made this
46x46, abt 62 grams. All rims baby.
The pressfit is a tad loose, but I’m fixing it with a 3d pen tomorrow. Or with some time and careful use of duct tape.
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Love it!
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@RyoCanCan It’s so beautiful it brings a tear to my eye
How is the bearing sitting on the plastic? I’ve had decent results with a plastic to metal seat.
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It’s there, but loosely. I accidentally gave it too much room. Everything else sits nicely.
I tried a new support profile and it was excellent, but there’s a little ledge I can’t get off. Back to fiddling with those.
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I want to know how I can get my hamds on some SS rings to put in my plastic yoyos.
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It works but you should melt it from outside in (so from the cup side to response side) just as a precaution so it stays in as you tighten, play etc, and do it as straight as possible.
I really don’t like my Speed Dial’s starburst, at all, but I want to play the thing. So why not make pad inserts for it?
Started in fusion360 with some calipers and ended up with this
I printed it immediately
Almost, but after one revision and I got it right
Now I gotta wait for the silicone to dry.
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This is an under-to-mid-sized butterfly shape with a 100% concave cup. Was trying to see if I could get it to an acceptable weight/inertia without making the hub pop out. Had to settle for an 8mm axle though. It landed on 52x52x63g.
I was also trying out an oversized but under-weighted butterfly shape that could take a slim bearing and do stalls. 60x42.43x64g. Not happy with the weight yet, would probably need to go more aggressive on the schmoove ring and just remove a lot of material there. Or, drop it from 10mm axle to 8mm.
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More caliper time. I wanted to make renders of a Superwide, so I did.
I changed the cup a bit, but the measurements and weight are real close to the original one.
Fun little afternoon exercise.
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Did a wide angle shutter in acrylic, not really a serious design, just to see how it looks. An actual design couldn’t get away with a 10mm axle and nothing else to hold it together. It’d need some brass in there kind of like the 3yo3 Acryllion.
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Now this is cool man!!
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that looks good
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This is a D-bearing 3-in-1 capped yoyo. It looks silly, I know. Just one of those weird dreams I had.
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Mark. I would buy the CRAP out of this yoyo. I muttered some not-so-forum-friendly expletives when I saw it. Please for the love of jojos make it.
Edit: also those colors for sure, and what is the third thing that it is?
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Pagoda style!
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It looks like the halves can be flipped. Pretty cool to see this in a metal yoyo. QC would be a bit of a nightmare, though.
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yeah, no doubt. On the other hand I’ve seen some pretty crazy traditional press-fit ring designs, and I think those are more sensitive to runout/concentricity issues.
Yeah, the idea started as a metal d-bearing no-jive.
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I measured it.
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