Would you happen to know the shell width? If it’s thick enough you shouldn’t have too much to fear. But smaller bolt is safer to try first 10/10
Printed one of the steel yoyos to see what it’d look like. 48mm x 48mm, A bearing yoyo. Still need to fiddle with the print settings but it looks good.
I should get a 3D printer one day, then turn them smooth on the lathe.
@Glenacius_K Would you like to practice on one from the Sigma Project?
I’d give it a shot
I actually printed extra of the T_2 to test consistency. Would you happen to have Duncan a-sized bearing spacers? I can send the axle and lock nut, but I’m pretty sparse on spacers.
All I have is Cabal guts unfortunately.
Well… This wasn’t a TOTAL failure.
Next step is to round off the edges more (ouch!) and get better fasteners.
That boy is a beastie!
Yeah it’s huge! and no joke when I say it’s painful.
Is there a way to ‘freeze’ a portion of a sketch and putz around with the rest? I want the hub/axle area to stay the same but every time I move a point, everything else gets distorted.
I know in solid works it does the same. You have to find where you dissociate the points. For solid works you turn off certain relationships when you click on the point. Sorry I don’t know Fusion as well, hopefully that can help
Edit: I forgot to mention sanding will help with any sharpness and some with the size. If you have like 400-600 that’d be a good start. Wet sanding
I had two of these biggies laying around
So I disassembled my PGM and took the spacers, axle,and nuts, open fusion and made this
46x46, abt 62 grams. All rims baby.
The pressfit is a tad loose, but I’m fixing it with a 3d pen tomorrow. Or with some time and careful use of duct tape.
@RyoCanCan It’s so beautiful it brings a tear to my eye
How is the bearing sitting on the plastic? I’ve had decent results with a plastic to metal seat.
It’s there, but loosely. I accidentally gave it too much room. Everything else sits nicely.
I tried a new support profile and it was excellent, but there’s a little ledge I can’t get off. Back to fiddling with those.
I want to know how I can get my hamds on some SS rings to put in my plastic yoyos.
Hey Mark, lemme give you a bit of an update
So we have both decided to use threaded knurled nuts to "melt’ in the hole I made.
What do you think?
It works but you should melt it from outside in (so from the cup side to response side) just as a precaution so it stays in as you tighten, play etc, and do it as straight as possible.
I really don’t like my Speed Dial’s starburst, at all, but I want to play the thing. So why not make pad inserts for it?
Started in fusion360 with some calipers and ended up with this
I printed it immediately
Almost, but after one revision and I got it right
Now I gotta wait for the silicone to dry.