Yoyo CAD & Prototyping Adventures


(Cruz Quintana ) #204

Are these the same guts as the Diffraction?


(Cruz Quintana ) #205

Oh ya I guess they are the same guts as the diffraction lel


(Mk1 Yoyos) #206

Yeah, pretty close at least. I think I re-drew the response pad area a couple times. These guts came from Jordan of Smashing yoyos, who lent his important advice and expertise to my project.


(Mk1 Yoyos) #207

Was thinking about mirror-polished aluminum - maybe polishing the cup is going to be the next cool thing? There’s a YYF yoyo called the Equilateral that had a separate mirror piece attached in the middle, but polishing the aluminum would be more durable and also allows for a larger polished section.

I chose this shape because it allows for a large, flat cup without adding too much center-weight.


(Cruz Quintana ) #208

Nice! Is this fitted for a 10 mm or 8 mm axle?


(Mk1 Yoyos) #209

This one is 10mm - I’m gonna work on the shape/weight a bit more then post full specs


#210

Mirror center has been done in plastic, but only with stickers of course.

Would mirror polishing without anodizing last on Alu though? Does mirror polish (no anodizing since it’s just polished) tarnish on Alu? :thinking:


(Cruz Quintana ) #211

I’m figuring on using these size C guts what axle are they sized for


(Mk1 Yoyos) #212

oh, the guts I posted earlier… not sure I remember the axle length. but you can adjust it by changing the length of the axle hole, then check the distance from the center plane. You want probably .2mm clearance.


(Cruz Quintana ) #213

Well I wanted to know both lol thank you mate


(Mk1 Yoyos) #214

np. if you post your design later (or even just part of it) I can give feedback, too.


(Mk1 Yoyos) #215

I think you can do it, but with a different process than normal anodization. I’ll have to ask around.

Found these really old-school looking forums that have lots of great info: https://www.finishing.com/177/72.shtml

Seems like you’d need to polish the aluminum and then do a pretty thin anodization layer if you want actual mirror properties. I think you could do this in yoyo form by polishing the cup, masking it off before any other surface treatment (bead blast, tumbling, etc) then do the anodization, then mask that area again and dye it. Seems tricky! Maybe you could anodize the entire thing then grind the anodization off of the cup area and polish it and just leave it raw.


({John15}) #216

Thanks to Mark who graciously and patiently walked me through the process of designing a yoyo in Fusion 360, I present to you: The ParDeck [lol]

It is a fusion of two of my favorite yoyos, the profile of a Parlay [With sliiight response bump, schmoove grooves and sliiightly higher walls] and the [similar] weight dist. of a Top Deck. Also, I modified the nipple in the cup to a little spike. It’s a supercharged classic!

Specs Parlay Deck
Material AL7075
Diameter 55.41mm
Width 42.79 mm
Weight 66.41 g
Ixx 15,870

This whole process was pretty neat!


#217

Wow that looks amazing!


(Spinworthy Glen) #218

Love the idea, but judging by that CAD drawing it will have some wobble.


({John15}) #219

Wobble? Explalin…


(Spinworthy Glen) #220

There’s a hugely thick area after a very thin area. This can have problems.


({John15}) #221

But that’s The way the Top Deck’s weight is distributed, and it is smooth as butter…


(Mk1 Yoyos) #222

This really depends on the tolerances your machinist can get to. Most modern competition bimetals have a similar change in density near the rims that can lead to bad vibe if the tolerances there aren’t just so. I feel like it’s reasonable for a monometal, though it depends on the minimum thickness in that thin area. Too thin and it can flex during the turning operations.


(Mk1 Yoyos) #223

What’s the fillet radius on your rim? It looks like it could use a little more rounding off - probably 1.0mm at least.

Looks great otherwise, though!