Anybody know what yoyo Samm Scott is using now? Most recent vid I’ve found is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7rD4Nveps0
I’m guessing it’s a Laser since he’s Team YYR and it doesn’t look like a Draupnir. I have a Draupnir but not a Laser, maybe somebody with a Laser could figure it out?
He typically uses an e=mc2
Hmm…yeah it does look like it could be an E=mc^2 on closer inspection. That yoyo is 3-4 years old though, I figured he was using something newer.
I’m trying to figure out a good yoyo to get designed for 5A. It’s hard to tell which ones are built for 5A in mind unless a 5A champion is using one because the companies aren’t allowed to advertise which yoyos are built for 5A thanks to Duncan’s patent.
There isn’t much of a difference between 5A and 1A yoyos. In fact there really isn’t one at all.
Just use what you like. When you are in the first learning stages you may find a tighter gap a bit better since your throw will likely be lacking, and binds will be a bit sloppy. A lot of people like small bearing, once again for the same reason longer spins with a weaker throw, and easier binds. Just keep in mind your throw is going to be lacking compared to 1A, and your binds are going to be slightly more tricky, then in 1A. use that info to choose a yoyo that will fit your 1A style. then get started. over time you will probably find you like a yoyo not exactly like the one you prefer in 1A, but when you start out something as close as possible to your favorite 1a throw will make things feel more natural.
Also agree it looks like the e=mc2 , or the six. one of the two.
I’ve found for me it makes a big difference which yoyo I am using for 5A. Stability seems to be the most important factor. I can tell a big difference between C3 Movitation and YYM Agonist (only ones I’ve tried, besides a Freehand Zero). The Agonist is easier to keep balanced IMO. Also its mass is like 62 grams so when doing tricks like one-handed pinwheel you have to put your finger farther from the yoyo to counterbalance the counterweight. I think this makes the trick easier as my finger is less likely to slide into the yoyo. Same with Bee Sting and a lot of tricks.
You said a lot of 5A players like small bearings, you mean size D? Would the Sturm Panzer Leo Sniper Mk-II be a good 5A throw? It’s one I’ve been considering but I don’t know enough yet about what qualities to look for to make a decision.
My next throw will be either the Laser, Leo Sniper Mk II, or Z-On, probably. Really I want all of them but I can spend about $250. 
Just like you said it really depends on your feel. I mean all those yoyos could be someones favorite 5A throw.
As for the bearing size when I say small bearing I mean duncan sized. D’s can be good but a lot of the time they have maxed out gaps and have the same under powered spin time like most maxed out C bearing yoyos.
The laser would probably be the yoyo out of the ones you listed I would most like to try out for 5A. It has a fairly tight gap, its going to be super stable, and it happens to be a shape I really like. I would almost bet it would be an awesome 5A throw. That being said i am not sure I would go for such a expensive throw for my first 5A yoyo. In fact I won’t buy a yoyo for more then 60 bucks.
As for the counterweight compatibility, that is another personal preference. You will find most people just use duncan dice, and adjust too it. One of the things you can do if you find the counterweight is too light is just add a bead of some sort to the string. You can really customize the weight of the counterweight this way. If you find it is too heavy you can drill out the center hole a little bit at a time till you remove enough material to make it play like you want.
The YYJ Next Level and YYF Supernova (or even a Genesis) are supposed to be good for 5A and relatively inexpensive but they are over $60. Maybe you could find a Genesis for under $60, they were recently being sold on a prominent Japanese site for less than that but they’re out now.
In general I’d rather get one high-end throw than multiple cheaper ones, unless the cheaper ones perform just as well.
I’m using Takeshi dice–they weigh about 12 grams, which I find is a good weight. It’s more than the Duncan dice. A good way to increase the weight on any die is with tungsten putty. It’s quite heavy so you can drill small holes in a die and shove the putty in or like with a Takeshi die you just wedge it in the opening and add up to several grams. I found a 16 gram counterweight was easier to control but not worth the loss in spin, so, back to 12 grams for me. I would prefer a round 12 gram counterweight though. It’s a shame Duncan has a patent on them or there’s probably be all kinds of counterweights available. A 3/4" diameter ball with a mass around 12-13 gram would be perfect. If I knew how I would make one out of a heavy metal sphere (like lead or something) coated with rubber. Oh well…
What exactly do you mean by saying a bearing has a “maxed out gap”? I heard the Leo Sniper Mk II had very powerful spin but have never used one.
