There is a lot to making good playing tops, but it’s a bit like yo-yos, some tops just work better for certain tricks and styles.
I have had tops for years that I really didn’t care for, but I was able to grow into when my skills increased. To complicate things, the tip is gonna make a huge difference for regens and wire walking tricks. The Spintastics QuickSilver comes with two different tips, if you lock down the tip that comes with the bearing model and play it fixed tip, it is very different than playing the same top with the Diabolo tip.
The other way that tops are like yo-yos is that they all seem to work better when certain people throw them🤣. I do add to my collection occasionally, but the more I throw, the more I realize the shortcomings of most of my tops is on the button side of the string, not the spinning side.
If you’re interested in mailing any out, I’m in 
v2 is on the printer now. They are printed in TPU which is a softer plastic. I got the idea from Chris Neff’s spin top workshop. The consequence of using the softer material is that the prints take a little longer than yo-yos. I can churn out one of these every 4 hours as opposed to a yo-yo which I typically crank out in an hour and a half (minus post-processing or assembly), where they are comparable amounts of material.
I recognize that I am neither a master top maker nor a master top player and just a guy hacking on his 3D printer to make things that spin.
That’s a good reason to do it, I wasn’t trying to discourage you, just talking shop.
How do I correct for “tip always points left”? I throw right handed.
If you pay attention to your throw you may notice you put some wrist motion in at the end of your throw that is tilting it. Try to focus on keeping the tip straight up at release.
Short of that, hold the top in your hand pre tilted in the opposite direction to compensate. That’s also how you adjust for a too long or too short string, if a string is a little too short you can release the top with the tip tilted away from you, and the opposite for too long.
Top v2 (with tip now) is a bit of a pros and cons situation. The size is better and easier for me to throw straight. The print settings I used removed some stringing. But the overhang was too much for my printer and TPU filament and came out messy.
I’m either going to have to split this into two pieces or make the top a little taller to get a better angle on the overhang.
Now you’re hooked. 
Latest top. Overhang is printing meh even though this one is the same design as my first which printed cleanly, just scaled up a little. Good spinner though.
18 joker chokers in the snow and mud this afternoon, I think that’s my best so far.
@TryCatchThrow , this is a B grade I “got” from Chris. He wasn’t going to send it out because of whatever black magic printer problems cause this kind of issue, but I got him to sell it at a discount because I don’t use bearings, and the top is hitting small rocks and roots and mud so I have to clean it off all the time anyhow. Tops can have a hard life.
This top’s halves look glued. I can definitely make one like that.
My next one I was going to go two piece but I was going to make the crown socket into the body.
Edit: I guess I’m not confident that the halves are glued, but the bulging seam makes it seem like it could be. But then it would be suspicious that all the defect was on one half…
No, it’s one piece. I don’t know all the issues, but that ridge just occurred when the colors were switched.
I don’t know anything about printing, but there were numerous problems and he was not happy with it, but it works well, so the body where the tip is secured is ok and the top just needed a tiny bit of putty to balance.
Finally a good print! The trick was enlarging the crown and rounding out the top half (which prints on the bottom).
This looks amazing
I picked up some extra tips so I can run a few.
That does look really sweet. Did you use the Short Circuit tip?
Yes. I did.
Here is a vid of it in action.
Heck yeah. Is it as tough as it looks? Because it looks tough as nails.