So I was having slippy binds with my L3 and the silicone I put in it, but I had been using that silicone for probably a month and solid playing and then I redid it. I am still having very slippy binds and I absolutely cannot get the string to not slip when I pull on it. I do not have flowable silicone, but I have this kind: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295861&cp=&fbc=1&f=Brand%2F1005269%2F&kw=silicone&lmdn=Brand&fbn=Brand|PERMATEX&parentPage=search&searchId=39112403403 which is supposed to work just fine. The first time I did the silicone, it worked wonderfully and I couldn’t get a slippy bind at all, and I did it the same way this time.
That silicone should be fine. What type of bearing are you using? This sounds like a problem with your bearing, i had the same problem with a defective bearing in my meteor. Putting a new bearing solved my meteor’s problem.
I was using a Konkave but I tried switching that with the one in my Dark Magic. That actually helped a tiny tiny bit, but not much.
Can you take a photo of the silicone for us to see? I mean in the o-ring hole. Is it recess, or is it flush?
Try to clean a bearing and put it in there and see what happens.
I can get some pics up tomorrow. Right now the silicone is almost flush, but it does stick out a little bit, but this shouldn’t make it slippy. I just cleaned the bearing yesterday. =(
That type of sili may be a bit “gummier?” than flowable sili,so using string such as 100% cotton or 50/50 may not be the best choice cause they give off substantial lint and dust,which gets stuck to the exsposed surface thats supposed to be friction,but is no more than fuzzy and slippery…
Try 100 poly…That may help…
And like Rs was saying,some pics could be helpful…
It doesn’t have to be anything like what I was saying;It’s just possible…
What strings are you using, and how often do you change them?
I can get some pics up in about 30 minutes or so if I can find the camera but would it be better if I got regular flowable? When I went to get my silicone they didnt have the flowable but I think they do now.
You may want to try stronger, quicker binds. If its slipping, you might be doing something wrong or your binds are too light. It happened to me with my Speeder.
Normal silicone is fine, thats what i use, and its fine. Mage is right, its probably something wrong with your binding technique, i never thought of that ???
Remember to pull down the loop really hard into the gap, and to pull your throwhand upwards.
Thanks, but my binding is fine. I don’t have this problem with my other yoyos and I haven’t had this problem very long with this one. Even when I wrap it it slips. ???
Other yoyos probably don’t have the same gap size as the L3, it has a pretty big gap from the pictures i have seen. I had this problem when i was moving from a hitman to a Meteor. Just try to really pull down hard, and pull up hard at the same time with both hands, i really believe that its something wrong with your technique. What was your previous yoyo before the L3? L3 probably isn’t the type of yoyo that you bind by dropping a string into the gap, you really have to pull.
If this is not the case, try putting a needle drop of thick lube in the bearing. Just see what happens.
It still can be your binds because my Speed Maker binds like a charm but my Speeder used to slip until I got even stronger binds.
Well this is the second time I’ve siliconed this particular L3 and the first time it was great but I did it the same way and I got this. Also, my other L3 binds great. It still has the o-rings though so I don’t know if thats why. If the silicone isn’t completely flat could that be why?
Answer my question, what was your yoyo before the L3? The bearing might not have been fully broken in before you siliconed it, and fully broke in after you did. If the silicone isn’t completely flat, and its sticking out, it should be even more responsive. If it is recessed, it should be very unresponsive.
Well before my L3 I had an M1. That has since been traded but it worked fine. Before that I used a Spinmaster 2, which also does fine.
I think your silicone is too smooth. 
Maybe you want to have it sticking out to make it more responsive.
Well it is still rather rough looking (it isn’t flat) and it sticks out from the yoyo a bit
Oh, if you had an M1, i guess it is a low chance of being your technique :-\ But just work on your technique, its still possible. I think you should just try to thick lube your bearing. Not so much to the point it becomes responsive, but just a little. tell me the results.
What string are you using? Try changing it but I still want to know what type of string you use.