sili a dm?


#1

i wanna put flowable silicone where my o ring is on my dm. i know it will make it less responsive but will it still bind tight and will i ever slip a bind???


#2

It depends. Use RTV silicone or Silicone II, and then if it is too low or too under the sides of the yoyo, then it can slip, but if it’s around 1/2mm-1mm, it will still be tight, but it depends on silicone, string, and binds.


#3

should the sili be raised or should i make it even with the plastic with a notecard or something ???


(Hardcore_Max) #4

make it concave so that the string can not rub on the sili, you can use a spoon but the easier way I do it is with some spit on your finger and smooth the sili down with it.


#5

If you make it concave, there’s a greater chance of slippy binds and you’ll have to re-silicone sooner. If you make it flush or even slightly raised, it’ll last a while longer, and you won’t have to worry about slippy binds.


#6

You can also put the YYJ silicone in there or a K-Pad, preferably YYJ silicone since it’s made for it. I put a K-Pad in my DM and it’s under the top and my binds almost never slip. They are always tight and nice. I’m suggesting this in case you didn’t think of it.


#7

yeah i was thinking of doin that but i think it will be less expensive if i buy some flowable cuz then i can use it on my other yoyos too


#8

Gotcha.

I think that you should try it on your cheaper yoyos first just to make sure that you can do it nicely.
do it on your first yoyo first before messing up your $40 DM. You probably already know this, but i’m just making sure.


#9

Well, unless you get some silicone in the bearing, there really isn’t any way to “mess up” siliconing a yoyo, so you can’t really hurt your Dark Magic. Might as well just go for it. (Yes you could do a bad job on the siliconing, but nothing will be hurt by it. Oh and don’t worry if you do silicone badly. It takes practice to do it well.)


#10

Would be best to do clean a job as possible. Here’s what I do.

I get my flowable silicone ready, nozzle cut high up so it is more precise. I then get circa 5 Q-tips, one side wet, one dry. I then apply the silicone into the recess. Depending on how I want the response, I either use the corner of the card I use to make it concave, but mostly I just flatten it. Then, before letting it dry, use the Q-tips and brush the bearing seat in a circular motion (best to make sure none is there once it dries, it can make your yoyo responsive, then you have to carve with a toothpick… It isn’t fun. After making circular motions with the Q-tips, us the dry end to dry it off. Now you know the bearing seat isn’t fudged up. Next, I generally use Q-tips to clean the area surrounding the place I just siliconed, as some is bound to have gotten out of the recess when being flattened. Be careful and do not blemish your handiwork. Then, just let it dry, with the peacefull thought that the silicone is only where it belongs.