@Pun1sh3R Have you been practicing turning anything new?
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Unfortunately I have not.
I made a Delrin jig with a pass through 5/16 hole in it. The idea I am thinking is, Lock a 5/16 rod in the jaws, align and lock the tail stock. Then slide the jig onto the rod, lock the jig into the jaw.
I am thinking this will maintain the centerline/axis of the equipment.
I do have 2 pucks cut with centers marked on them. I just need to take the time to go make some dust now.
Time has been my least available commodity recently…
I also picked up a 2mm parting tool also. One Piece yoyos???
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Mmm dust XD. my parting tool i use for gaps is 2.3mm. the one piece is real.
I would also love to try turning delrin or some sort of plastic but im not sure what to use or where to get where im from.
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I just ordered a piece of 2 inch round stock by 12 inches long from the rainforest online store.
I did not intend to make a yoyo with it, just use it as material for jigs. I noticed some warping and cracking on the wood jig I had. So figured plastic would be better. Ill try and grab some photos later.
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The rule of thumb is one year of drying time per inch of thickness…
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This is why as much as possible I buy from salvage and demolition companies. Couple of decades as a stable or fence post sorts out anything that might want to split.
@DLC I’m curious about your opinion on which kiln dried timbers still turn well. I’ve had the odd problem with brittle timber
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Here’s something you could start with to start turning some.
It’s makes some surprising good throws:
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My first wooden yoyo. I learned a lot. I cut pucks with a whole saw and pilot on drill press. I printed a jig for an 8 hole response and drilled those. Then I did rough shaping on a stationary disc sander, then chucked it up on the drill press to finish it with sandpaper.
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I love it. Very neatly made!
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Thanks! For my second outing I have a few changes planned:
- Hole saw without pilot.
- 3D print centering jig to tap axle without cutting through.
- Get the pucks thinner. I don’t have a planer yet so I did this by stationary disc sander.
- More butterfly shaped. I was conservative in my first attempt, but feel more confident now.
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If you are using a holesaw to cut each half, I don’t recommend removing the pilot. It could potentially create a dangerous cutting situation. Also, with this method, using the pilot bit is probably the best way to make sure the hole is centred.
Getting the blanks thinner is tricky as a sander won’t create a parallel faces, leading to a wobbly yoyo. I’d suggest trying to source thinner boards. In Oz we have 19mm (too thick) or 12mm. If you can find oak boards in 12mm thickness (or the imperial units equivalent) that would make a really killer large diameter fixie.
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Roger that. I had thought it was optional…
I think there are allegedly hardware shops with planers available in should be able to do this. Mine are 18mm, and I’d prefer 16mm.
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Oh if they have planer, then perfect. I’d recommend having them plane the board down to 15mm. Thats a happy standard for a fixed axle yoyo half.
Then again, maybe you are not asking for my advice. You do it however you want!
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Your advice is much appreciated.
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I used a hole saw without a pilot once.
Once.
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My neighbor apparently has a planer. Will thin my board down tomorrow.
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I’ve done that to remove lugs on a ford that the chrome delaminated from the steel lug. I guess the lug acted as the guide kind of. It was mildly sketchy
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Lmfao sounds like the Lug Ripper!!! Always a nightmare when that thing comes out. Especially when your coworkers don’t believe that the bit needs to be cooled AND no you may not use it on locking lugs.
Guess who destroyed the $400 bit?
Guess whose boss doesn’t wanna buy another?
Guess who’s reaaaaaaally happy they are leaving the auto industry for a new career this Friday!!! 
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It’s gnarly, wouldn’t you agree?
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