PLA printer filament.
So does a small arbor press help ensure the axle stays square to the yoyo as well? Looks like it should.
PLA printer filament.
So does a small arbor press help ensure the axle stays square to the yoyo as well? Looks like it should.
Yeah that’s why an arbor press is really useful for this application. The ram has a surface perpendicular to the bed and it pushes straight down, so it retains the precision really well as long as the hole is clean and free from swarf.
I inserted all of the axles for the Survivalist run this way.
What about using an arbor press on something small like this screw in axle? Seem doable? I’ve never used one.
Do you mean use the arbor press to fit a steel pin into the plastic parts? I assume that’s what you mean.
It should be fine, but go easy and slow. There is less bulk of plastic fitting around the hole so be careful how tight you make the tolerances.
My recommendation is that you use a solid aluminium pin instead of steel because when it corrodes it forms a thin layer that protects it from further corrosion, unlike when steel rusts.
You should be able to buy AL rod from your local hardware store and simple cut it to size with a hacksaw or bandsaw.
Yes that is what I mean. I’m gonna pick a press up and try this. Seems like the best option. I had also considered heating the metal axle pin before pressing it into the plastic since this plastic piece is so small and PLA is soft/brittle. Have you every tried preheating the axle before pressing it in?
I tried to get aluminum at my local hardware store and it was a no go. I just grabbed the steel since I’m still at the “proof of concept”stage with all this. I definitely think the yoyo would play better with AL as well.
Thanks Glen!
I have considered doing this, but I never attempted it. If it’s heated too much, it would likely ruin the accuracy of the fit from causing too much melting. I’ve never tried it though, so it may work out better than expected.
Very nice indeed!
Looks so great Ray! Can’t even see any layers hardly. Did you sand it or is this due to the new software you had mentioned?
PS. What is your preferred method for installing and securing the axle rod?
This has zero post processing, just as is was fresh from the build plate. Material and settings did the trick on this one. I guess if you sand it it looks not like a print at all any more.
I just glue the axel nothing special.
Wow. What was the layer height? Looks like you’ve got serious print skills!
A pair of 3D Bees 

I might be onto something with this axle design. Just gotta get the axle rod cut/glue procedure figured out.
Nice how does it play? My new throw also just left the build plate. Need to silicon it now.
Plays quick, snappy, and fun. Feels different than anything I’ve tried before. Pleased with how the design turned out. Gonna make a couple more tweaks to help improve the thread durability and tightness. Also trying to figure out the appropriate gap width. So far 8-9 playing cards thick seems best all around. 5-6 cards thick for snappy 0A or light looping.
How do you set your gaps when you glue in axle rods?
Depends - I love playing Fixies with self made string thick as rope  so between 2-5mm.
 so between 2-5mm.
Silicon party:
I enjoyed the measurements of my last fixie so now we have on this 1A throw nearly the same.
34mm X 52mm @ 52g
Interesting properties are:
Very very powerful at 52g
The porcelain PLA makes it grid able
Fast but hard to catch due to its slime line shape
What are you guys using for guts? I’m curious how I can get some so I just need to make the actual shape and rims
In this throw they are printed.
What kind of hub are you using?