Ok so recently my Protostar’s stock pads decided to just pop out and not return anymore to the recesses of my yoyo…now I’m planning on changing the response to flowable silicone. I’ve seen the guides, I just want to double check. Any tips or warnings I should know? I’ve heard that Protostar’s surface is quite hard to silicone.
Just put it in the grove and take off the excess with a spoon or something.
Yes I am pretty sure the silicone won’t stick well. Also it will be less of a hassle to just get new pads and put them in wouldnt it. As i said before i think once the silicone dries because of the plastic surface it will get pulled out by the string and be in the form of a circle that the groove was. But if you must I would also recommend using Red or Blue RTV silicone that is what I use when I silicone my things and that works good.
I’ll tell you what I’ve silliconed many yoyos and I found that my ProtoStar holds Sili/RTV very well. I have had it for a year or so and have siliconed it twice and I play it a lot.
I agree. It think it will take silicon fine. I have a FHZ with red silicon and a lyn fury that I siliconed with the clear. No issues with it getting pulled out. Just make sure it dries for atleast 24 hours.
It will take the silicone without the slightest problem. Might be a little hard to take out though.
Silicone should go in fine. If it doesn’t, scratch the surface of the recess with a knife.
Definitely wait the 24 hours to let it cure. Granted, I’ve never actually tried not letting it cure for 24 hours. But it definitely doesn’t hurt. Hope yours works out okay!
I’m finding that YYF plastics silicone nicely. I siliconed my PGM last month, and it works really well.
Put some RTV in it for it to last long.
Clear silicone only lasted me about 2 weeks and then the sucker pulled out.
i also suggest if your really on board with this to wait IT OUT.
Just let it sit by the window overnight and let it sit for another night.
so 2 Days or 30 Hours.
Letting it sit longer than 24 hours doesn’t do anything. It wont cure anymore after that 24 hours of drying time.
Ok so sand the grooves a little bit, let it set for 24hours?
My local autoshop/hardware store doesn’t supply the flowable clear Permatex and I’ve heard that the red one lasts longer than the clear one.
There’s quite a mix of useful and useless information in this thread.
As a few people have mentioned, sanding the recesses a bit will do wonders for giving the silicone some texture to bond to.
Check out this video for a quick reference:
As you can see in the video, the red RTV will work just fine, but it begins to cure much more quickly than the clear. You’ll need to work fast to tamp the red RTV into the recess. I usually use the corner of a credit card rather than a spoon, but pick your poison. What I do that isn’t shown in the video is, after applying and doing a first swipe, I then quickly push the credit card corner into the silicone and break up any air bubbles that may have formed, then use the CC edge to push back into the recess some of the excess RTV that should have collected around the recess after the first swipe, then swipe again, holding the credit card edge stationary against the recess while you spin the yoyo with your other hand - as shown in the video.
Lastly, install the RTV before you go to sleep and it will be more than adequately cured by the time you wake up. The beauty of silicone is that if you fail for some reason, you’ve got a whole tube to redo it with.
For a place to letting the silicone cure a dust free box would be good or should I just leave it in an open space and it would be fine?
I would attempt to keep stuff from getting on it while it cures. Other than that, I wouldn’t worry too much. The most important thing is to read the instructions and give it the full curing time. A bit extra never hurts. Of course, anything more than an extra hour is really not needed.