Permatex 22074 Ultra Grey for very unresponsive return system

Yup, after doing some digging I learned that to be the general consensus. Some claimed that regular flowable needs to be reapplied way more frequently than response pads, while a few others stated that red gasket maker lasts far longer.

That’s why I wanted to get both to see which one I preferred. If you played with a siliconed yoyo for about an hour a day, how long would regular silicone last with that level of play, as opposed to one with red gasket maker installed, with a standard response pad as a control? (Purely a mind experiment for estimates, I do not expect anyone to have actually done this)

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unfortunately i didnt go through an experimental phase with doing my own. i tried gear oil and liked it and stuck with it. i will say, though, that i play most of mine most days and for a while each day and ive not had to reapply any yet. you can expect months to a year at least without having to worry about response

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https://a.co/d/eB1crXp

Anyone use this?

90 minute cure time sounds good. 30a softness.

Oh yeah this is great for water pump, thermostat housings and differential housing covers :+1:

Also great for the timing cover/ head seams when doing valve cover gaskets.

As for yo-yos? No idea

The 90 min cure time sounds amazing but I’m used to the 50 hardness of ultra grey and I think 30 might be too soft for me. Next time I’m buying silicone, if I see it I’m gonna try it, though!

Tried some ultra grey about a week ago on some yo-yos that frustrated me. Both yo-yos have non typical pads, A bearing and CLYW. Pulled out one pad each, and did flush grey in the leaf and recessed in the cold fusion.

After 1 week of play. Both yo-yos have gotten about an hour each of play, maybe more. Both are a little more enjoyable. The Leaf feels much more powerful now.

Comparison of other pads.

Here’s some of the clear flowable (didn’t seem to act like flowable) from a month ago. Was curious about response with the Plastic peak, as I’ve always enjoyed how it played, but the pads always protruded. Just dint bother me. And I wanted to experiment. I think the clear was so low that’s it’s basically like playing with 1 pad. All the string I use is OT Wild (fat, I guess) canopy rope, and cloudweave.

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I’m a convert. Won’t buy pads again. Did the other side of my leaf the other day , and it’s a ripper now. Also, I realized I’m using 27036, which is different than ultra grey. the TDS sheets says 30-40a shore scale hardness, and 300% elongation (stretch). Totally satisfied.

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All hail lord permatex :folded_hands: :folded_hands: :folded_hands:

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I’ve recently become a convert and it’s so good

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Tried to ultra grey for the first time and after 26hrs of curing and it is still a similar wet consistency to when first applied. :frowning:

Best way of cleaning this off on a plastic yoyo?

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you got expired permatex. when that happened to me I just wiped it off with paper towels and washed it with dish soap. mine was on a metal but I can’t imagine this process harming a plastic.

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I use this stuff

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27036 for the 5a shooting star. A little vibe because I wasn’t perfectly level this time around, but vibe doesn’t hurt.

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Some yo-yos I siliconed recently. The little medicine syringe and using an old gift card side to knock off the excess, and then the corner to recess it slightly has been my technique. Any tips on getting it perfectly flat when you remove the card though? I end up with these little tails, and they don’t really affect anything, but I’d like it to be prettier.

After my first pass of pressing the silicone into the groove with a card, I’ll end up with a tail like what you’re showing. I then just do a second swipe straight outwards from the bearing post where the tail is.

It’s probably more trouble than it’s worth if you want a recess. I just clean it up since it only takes like an extra second to do so if you just want it flush.

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I had just used ultra gray last night and was looking for just this solution :sob:
Thank you!!

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