I don’t disagree with you, except for the super grippy difference between the 2 I’ll go for the grey. I’m used to cured silicone being super stuck to whatever I’ve used it on in the past. So I felt compelled to get things as close to perfect as possible to reduce the amount of cleanup, but seeing how easy the excess is to remove I’ll give it a go. I’ve siliconed many things in my life just never this small and precise. I have the grey in hand and I also got the syringe. So I’ll be trying this out shortly. 
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I think you can handle it if you got the patience. My first run was definitely a mess. I noticed you said how easy it is to remove the excess, I’m not sure if it looked that way from my first photo to my second. That first photo I actually ended up removing everything and starting again. I just wanted to make sure I let you know so you don’t do what I did the first time haha. Just make sure you use a card to get to get the excess not touching what’s in the gap and smooth before it dries. I actually think I had it smoother at one point but my OCD kicked in trying to make it perfect and it actually made it less smooth in the end. I’m happy how it plays and I’m super cheap so I’m glad I tried it out. Hope it works out for you too!
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Dont worry if its not perfect it perfectly smooth out after a bit of playing.
Yesterday night i silicone my Da Vinci and today i played all day with it, always leave me speechless how this silicone improve the feeling I just love it.
Tonight I silicone the Jugemu, lets see if the silicone improve also that one but i am pretty sure it does!
The pads from the factories are laterally too responsive, them was before and now that i am used to this silicone i can feel it even more
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I actually read your account saying just this a few days ago. That’s why I’m ok with it being less than smooth. Otherwise my OCD would demand perfection and that would just drive me mad. 
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Man, you are seriously a pro of siliconing, how is so perfect! 
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Guitar picks work wonders! Barely any cleanup left to do after drying thanks to it haha
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Overnight and a cleanup and this ain’t too bad. This put my Pop Art back into rotation, and after a drop of thick lube on the bearing (3mm ceramic A bearing) the Bi Metal Bumblebee is actually enjoyable to throw. Wow!! I’m a believer. I’ll never buy pads again. 
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Ok, I’ll try it. 
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I run my Bumblebee with this bearing which narrowed the gap also by 1mm over a standard A bearing. I can’t speak to how well it will do with a standard A.
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I used a guitar pick to dig in and scrape off a little more of the Permatex this time. It’s a lot more concave than my first attempt, where I basically used a plastic card and scraped it so that it was flat across. That first attempt worked, but it ended up being way too grabby for me. I figured that if I used one of the curved ends of the pick then it would help to reduce the grabbiness. Does anyone have experience with how temperature affects the curing time? It’s about 100º in my garage, so I’m thinking that I won’t have to wait the full 24 hours until it’s ready.
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I waited 8ish hours last time I did this and it was fine. I don’t know how heat affects curing time at all.
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My girlfriend showed me that an IV syringe is a lot like the baby feeder ones however the IV version comes with different diameter tips. It’s hard to see here with no comparison but this one is much smaller and fits right into the groove with a good amount of wiggle room. This (at least as it feels to me) helps with air bubbles and getting a proper amount.
This is my first grey attempt on a butterfly and I made it almost flush.
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This is the same amount of recess I put.
I think humidity matters more than temperature for curing time personally. My room is pretty humid, although I’m not sure of the exact value. For my room it takes 6 hrs to cure to the point I can throw quite hard without any issues.
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I just tried the same thing today with a syringe, and it’s definitely the way to go - especially if you’re doing more than one yoyo. At first, I thought that I’d end up wasting a lot of the Permatex by putting too much in the syringe, but that didn’t turn out to be the case. I ended up using just slightly more than was needed, so I wasted even less of it this way. And as you mentioned, bubbles and other problems weren’t a problem. Overall, I think this is a much better way to do it.
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Not the best picture but I’m also not home
After a few days of my usual stall and regen routine this is how the grey looks.
I was nervous about grey in my responsive edc on account of how picky I can be but I can confidently say that I’m a grey convert from here on out. Very grabby stalls and out of the way enough for a little matrix or gerbil transition.
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I been loving the grey too. I burn threw pads so fast. I put some new pads on my valley no more than 2 months ago and it’s already slipping a lot. I’m gonna grey it next. Slipping binds is such a bummer of a feeling sometimes.
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Revived an old shutter that has been out of action for years, I used the JB weld Ultra grey because it was 10 bucks cheaper. only played 5 mins but seems to be going good
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Man o man. That looks near perfect.
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