but I also would say my prototype chaku from alchemik. I threw it mach 200 at a retaining wall and the YOYO won. I now have a dent in my wall from a yoyo.
TLDR; titanium is stronk
but I also would say my prototype chaku from alchemik. I threw it mach 200 at a retaining wall and the YOYO won. I now have a dent in my wall from a yoyo.
TLDR; titanium is stronk
In general Iāve found 7075 outer ring bimetals to hold up REALLY well to abuse. I have a couple of them in 5a rotation. They hit my tile with quite a bit of speed on a regular basis.
They get a little vibe. And I need to click the ring back on a little every now and then.
But surprisingly stable, and durable.
In general I agree. My old Gdiver7075v2 had a couple good dings on it and was 9.5/10 smooth still. It probably varies significantly from yoyo to yoyo but 7075 designs of both monometals and bimetals seem to soak up damage better than 6061 of similar designs, which would make sense.
Most 7075 and 7068 monos barely scuff when they get dropped.
6061 gets massive dents and deformations.
I also think that the steel rings absorb a lot of impact. The main two 7075 bimetal throws I use for 5a are the Galaxy Diver V2 and the Divemaster. Both have some gnarly scratches some placesā¦but the steel seems to bounce right back in stead of deforming.
My other one is an iYoyo explosion which doesnāt have steel on the edge. But the aluminium holds up well and only thing thatās happened a little is the rings shifting a little bit. Which I was able to pop push back.
I dinged my Thruline (7975) HARD a couple days ago on concrete, barely left a mark. Still glass smooth ![]()
I have dinged a Shutter (6061)on the same floor and it looked like it got bit lol, still played smooth and did not gain any vibe either, for what itās worth. That thing took a hell of a beating and still played perfect, i eventually gifted it to a friend who was stoked to learn how to bind on it. Had I been sober I woulda probably realized that thing was dangerously sharp in some spots and given him something plastic instead, but well⦠it was a Luau, so meanā¦
I honestly think yoyos can take a lot more punishment than people seem to think.
But I think a lot of people care a lot about resale value. And yeah it hurts that.
I purposely buy dinged yo-yos so I can carry and use them out and about and not sweat it when the inevitable happens lol
Not to mention itās miles cheaper than getting it new! The relsale value of some collectible throws is practically a pet peeve for me.
Whenever I have one like this I rub the yo-yos nose in it so it doesnāt do it again. And to smooth out the area.
I took it to the anvil of my bench vise and rolled the little micro edge over. Not nearly as bad as a 6061 ding, noticeably firmer when rolling it against the steel as well. Good olā 7075
Dunno that Iāve had a 75. Might have to put it on the list to test against some asphalt
⦠for science.
lol my Diver 2 has taken a 5a beating as well, so I can attest to this
I play a lot on concrete floor and I had some strange results which I then did more research on.
Basically there are two things to consider about āvulnerable to damageā. How brittle something is vs how fragile it is. The cheapest kind of plastic (like plastic cheatcode, myy K2, duncan butterfly) is brittle but not fragile while 6061 aluminum is the other way around.
I believe itās like this from durable to fragile in terms of getting vibe after impact
The thing however is that the way the yoyo is build matters most. Rounded edges can take a beating pretty well vs sharper edges. The way a bimetal ring is attached matters a lot. Look at at yoyofactory edge beyond vs a MK1 brass exia. Beyond will vibe with the tiniest hit while a inner ring bimetal with rounded edges (of 7068 aluminum) can take a hit really well. Sometimes outer ring bimetals are just constructed in a more durable way (like c3 galaxy diver v2).
C3 speedaholic xx and ghost ix are the most durable things Iāve tried in plastic. Can take multiple concrete drops from 5a and still spin so smooth.
I think in regards to durability of yoyos, you summed it up pretty well.
I will say this, yes sharper shapes vibe easily, but that doesnāt make them unplayable. My Summer Solstice is by far my most beat up throw, but occasionally I can still get a vibe-less throw with it. And while it certainly doesnāt spin as long as it used to, the vibe is all fingernail vibe. I still like whipping it out time and again.
With sharper shaped yoyos, they do seem to be more prone to vibe, which affects the spin time more than anything else, as the momentum of the yoyo is now being thrown off axis. Wouldnāt be surprised if this applied to wider yoyos too.
Physics ![]()

Donāt pop a tire!
I think it is way more about the design than materials when it comes to bimetals. I have two pairs of Hades I main for 3a (6061+ss). I havenāt ring shifted the one pair ever after heavily using them and I only shifted the other pair bc I was working on 3A DoN and sent them into each other at the speed of light. Also I never ring shifted the Ions also so shoutout to UNPRLD. Every other bimetal I have played or asked other 3a players about shifts at varying frequencies. Is this anecdotal? Kind ofā¦but I do ask 3a players how their yoyos are holding up all the time.
But yeah generally ti or stronger grade mono alu is going to be more durable. I just wanted to be a nerd and say that bc ime the design w bimetals is the most important thing to keep the rings from popping off.
Also 6xxx series w short axles can strip relatively easy. (Iām looking at you Echo 2
)