My last undercut design was a Butterfly and I couldn’t get anything right about it. I might take some lessons learned from this one and try to make a new undercut fixie.
1 Like
This is the final version of the “Planet.” I’m going to get some photos and put it on printables this weekend.
I did not wind up changing the profile or diameter, but made a few tweaks to the hub and cavity.
9 Likes
Making some trades with @kretzschmar, who requested a Honeycomb in a different colorway. After some thought, I came up with the Nuclear Honeycomb, a not so subtle nod to the Nuclear Bee.
15 Likes
I so want one of those—very well done!
2 Likes
16 Likes
That’s sick!!!
Love this so much. So excited
1 Like
Greetings printing enthusiasts! I have a question for people that print unresponsives with a printed bearing seat and pad recess.
Do you need to print a wider gap to avoid snagging on the seat? I ask because my most recent unresponsive print is snaggier than I expected. I theorize that maybe I need to open up the gap because printed PLA is higher friction than a polished material like a machined AL or plastic throw would be.
In my experience my yoyos don’t snag on the bearing seat at all. I’ve had more issues with the bearing seat not letting the bearing spin properly.
I could be wrong though.
2 Likes
Most of mine have a gap in the 4.2 - 4.5mm range, and I haven’t experienced any snaggy behavior I can attribute to the material or bearing seat. I have found that the Permatex Flowable silicone I like for responsives can be a bit too snaggy for unresponsives though, so I prefer to use Permatex Ultra Gray or actual response pads. I’ve also found that when using actual pads, tiny changes to how recessed the pad is below the bearing seat surface can have a much bigger than expected influence over how snaggy or slippy it is.
3 Likes
I, too, have a question for the other 3D printer folks. Has anyone had success with printing an unresponsive yoyo primarily out of TPU? I’ve been trying, as I think it would be awesome for trying to learn 3A, but have been failing miserably. It’s extra frustrating because I print a lot of TPU for other stuff, but just can’t get it to work for this. The main issue seems to be that it flexes in such a way that there’s some sort of resonance that happens which results in unplayable vibe. I’m thinking a mostly stiff core (PLA or PA6) and then only use TPU for the very outer rims would probably work, but I wanted more of the yoyo to be softer and more impact resistant.
3 Likes
I had this idea for an offstring yoyo. Print the guts out of PLA and make the rest out of TPU. But we haven’t messed around with TPU yet. And I not sure I could design that either.
1 Like
Yes, TPU rims would be awesome for offstring too.
2 Likes
I’ve only done one unresponsive but I went to the one drop page for a yoyo I liked and just took their gap measurement, 4.47 and used it. Instead of flowable I bought a kajillian magic yoyo pads for cheap and use those.
1 Like
Making the rims or outer body TPU might give you the softer yoyo you want anyway. I haven’t done an unresponsive TPU yet, but I found that getting good squish with TPU usually means going light on perimeters and infill but then you end up underweight. Having the core be 100% infill rigid plastic and then low infill TPU might be a good balance that keeps the squish, hits weight goal. I’m going to be testing this with a TPU body for my signature this week.
1 Like
I feel like a metal sister system like the FD stem or OD cabal guys would work better for tpu as you want a strong ridged core with little to no flex around the bearing.
1 Like
When I have the yoyo open, the bearing seems to spin freely. I don’t have a ton of room to add a better tolerance on the bearing outer wall.
I have been using shadow pads. I bought a bunch on that other yoyo site. Perhaps I will recess them an additional layer…
1 Like
I have not tried and unresponsive yet in TPau, but I do have a bearing responsive printed in the 68D AMS friendly TPU, and while it does t squish it seems to retain the impact resistance properties. Perhaps you just need to try firmer TPU?
1 Like
I have re-run numbers and think my gap should be around 4.6mm which seems plenty big. I will attempt to recess the pads another 0.2mm.
1 Like