Thanks! Yeah, an A size bearing weighs about 1g, counterweight is 10g without the bearing and 11g with.
The H2D is pretty nice looking they seem to have improved on the dual nozzle setup ultimaker uses and the swappable tool rail is pretty sweet too. I can see where Bambu are headed with this particular machine. They are trying to create an all-in-one craft machine. I like the idea but I wonder how practical it’s going to be in real-world use vs just purchasing individual machines dedicated for certain tasks.
Swapping heads, adding air assist lines and what not to laser each time is what makes things like the snapmaker a pain to deal with if you want to swap back and forth between 3d print mode, cnc mode and laser mode. Lot’s of swapping of parts and what not makes it so you don’t want to deal with swapping it out each time. I do like Bambu’s approach with the fixed print head and everything attaches with a rail system. So swapping should be less tedious but it’s still extra work if you want to quickly cut something or print something out and it’s set up for whichever task you used last. It’s also unclear if you can leave the air assist attached or if you have to remove it each time you go to print.
Just curious, why would you want to retire the P1P in favor of the H2D? Do you plan on using all of the modules? If not, I’d say upgrade the P1P to the P1S and save yourself some major dough. The P1P is a heck of a great printer and when upgraded it’s even better.
Currently the upgrade kit is $177. It’ll give you the closed chamber and all of the other bells and whistles the P1S has. You could even purchase a bunch of other upgrades like a better screen (panda touch from bigtreetech), E3D Revo / DiamondBack or ObXidian hotends or MicroSwiss Flowtech, more Build plates(smooth, textured, patterned) replace worn out belts or motors and still come out ahead. You could even buy another AMS unit and still have money left over.
BUT! If you’re paying for 90% of it (h2d) with points, that’d be pretty awesome and maybe worth totally worth it then!
If laser is what you’re looking at, honestly I’d say get a dedicated machine. The H2D is still a printer at it’s core and all of the other add-ons are coming at a huge upgrade cost. The Filtration system is going to be $600 by itself, they haven’t even mentioned if it’ll be included with the laser tier. As of right now, it looks like the filtration system will be an additional separate upgrade cost. (ouch!) Who knows how much the heads are going to cost, especially the 40w.
I guess it depends on what you want to do with it, like engrave only or cut thick material? You can get something like the Ortur LM3 (10w) for like $350 right now and upgrade it to 20 or 30w later if you needed more cutting power. It’s got a much bigger build volume too (400mm) There are all kinds of options out there. The Xtool M1 ultra is pretty sweet, it’s similar to the glow forge but a lot more affordable.
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My P1P was purchased at release, well before the P1S or the upgrade kit existed. I have upgraded it to essentially be a P1S, but due to the timing it was a DIY upgrade rather than the official kit (printed enclosure with acrylic panels, added all the fans, cable chain, heat sinks, etc.). I love it, and have recommended the P1S to several friends and family members.
Main reason I’m considering upgrading from my P1P is that it’s got a lot of print hours on it, some parts are starting to show considerable wear, and I’ve currently got enough MakerWorld points to get a P1S for free, and should have enough for a P1S combo soon which would get me a 2nd AMS. Considering saving up points for the H2D instead for the dual nozzles and larger build volume. Being able to use a different support material or 2nd color without wasting time and materials with purging would be pretty sweet.
And, yeah, I’ve looked at lasers before, and a dedicated machine looks like a much better option for many reasons, especially at the premium Bambu wants to charge to add those modules. I’ve also already got a Cricut for any cutting needs. If I do go for the H2D, it’ll just be the base model.
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That’s awesome! You’ll have to share it when you do! It seems like itll be totally worth it when you can exchange the makerworld points! I hope my response wasn’t taken as an attack on you or like I was singling you out or anything like that. I was genuinely curious about it.
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Okay it’s finally here. All the files, shopping lists, and instructions to make your own Weird and Weirder Pals.As seen on Weird Al’s front porch maybe.
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Warning: long rambling post incoming
My ongoing experimentation with 3D printed throws has been focused on ways to substantially increase rim weight for a while now. I’ve messed with embedding steel rings in the rims, but the steel rings I could source cheaply and easily all had some flaw, not the right diameter, or too heavy, or poor tolerance leading to vibe, etc. I also toyed with embedding steel BB’s in the rims, which worked better, but either had an annoying rattle, or a PITA and slow build process to eliminate the rattle. The past month I’ve been messing with Polymaker metal infused PLA rims, with good results. The metal infused filaments are spendy (~$50/500g), but they print really nicely once you tune them, and are almost double the density of regular PLA.
What I ended up with requires supports to get the weight distribution as rim weighted as possible, which is a bit ugly, but my solution is to design it to accept POGs to cover up the ugly supported surfaces.
So the next step of course is to figure out a design for the POGs. I figured a model name would be a good start, and thought it’s kinda like a hybrid, plastic body with metal rims. Except it’s really more of a ramshackle, makeshift, Wish .com version of a hybrid. So I thought maybe it’s a Hi-Brid, where Brid is like a derpy version of Bird.
Or maybe it’s a High-Brid:
But for the past week I’ve been playing with the G2 x YYBC Workhorse V1, and due to how much I enjoy throwing it, and how well it plays, I took some inspiration from it and tweaked the design a bit. So what would be a low-rent knock off version of a Workhorse, Twerk-Horse?
Or maybe it’s a Twerk-Horse with High-Brid construction technology…
Seems I had too much free time to myself this morning after early morning kids activities. I’ll see myself out.
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Twerk horse 10/10 name lol. Incredible.
I have also been experimenting with printed metal rims over the last week! Jinx!
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I saw that, those are amazing! And hilarious. I particularly love how it looks like both a waffle and a shower drain. I have a slightly different take on the Waffle Stomp yoyo, but it’s still a work in progress.
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I also made a full size, measured an actual eggo waffle version but it plays sooooo horribly! It’s so hard to throw. But it’s hilarious.
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Just got myself a 3D printer and have been printing basic stuff (fidgets, little gadgets, etc). Learned enough of FreeCAD to design an internal bone for making a crochet counter weight!
I’ve had this idea forever and it’s pretty sweet like just making a sketch and then push a few buttons and it’s a real world object. Need to modify it a bit and add a stopper piece, and then start adding to the crochet part!
It’s kinda huge right now but it’s a blast, even if my 5A skills are very basic haha
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I feel like you would be able to get away with only supporting the center hub and the rim step, and not supporting the bottom surface of the cup. They look like they should bridge fine as long as they’re flat.
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This is an awesome idea! I have been trying to think through a chainmail counterweight design for the printer and maybe what it’s missing is a rigid core.
That’s what YYT did with theirs
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I believe there is video evidence of @Son-of-Morris actually doing this with real Waffers (Thats what my daughter calls them.)
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100%, the “Will it STEM” series, haha. The first one was Will it Waffle?
Also an apple, and tin cans.
Some other people also jumped in a bit there as well. 
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Nice! I (meaning I had my sister do it) tried to make one of those using a marble. It turned out ok but not great, what kind of an inside shape should I be trying to make?
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I’ll post up a picture when I print another one… gotta wait until I get a filament dryer because I’m new to this and my filament got to much moisture haha
It’s basically like a bone shape: slightly fluted on both ends with a hole running through it. I also added indentations around the ends for the yarn to sit in. I’ll post up the STL as well once I get it printed!
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fwiw my understanding is that this is mostly gimmick and normal 5a play doesn’t build up torsion in any meaningful way
That’s kinda what I gathered as well. But, figured trying it out would be a good way to use up some of the 100 incredibly loose poor tolerance concave A bearings I bought. 
They also add a bit of needed weight.
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