I have. I tried staining all the halves I’ve made so far. They are drying in the garage and it was not looking great (as I am an inexperienced woodworker 
).
I can print a cleaner one soon.
In general, I haven’t yet found the wood PLA to be a better player or looker than plastic, so I don’t know that I feel it’s worth the trouble.
Here’s some photos. I actually found this particular wood to play great, and in some situations play better than normal plastic. I’ve also tried a lot of wood filaments and most are like what Brandon said but not this one, it barely strings and prints clean.
I have one design I purposely made for the wood filament called the wooden bullet, reimagining of the SB2 as a wooden fixie.
The material reminded me of terracotta so I also made this flower pot yoyo.
I did pullstart freehand caps
And some other designs I’ve printed with it.
These are all so cool, I really like that sb2 fixie🔥
For anybody who 3d prints the filament is Prusa Linden Wood filament, it’s made from the national tree of Czech Republic, and is unfortunately only available direct from Prusa in Czech Republic so you have to import it. I’ve ordered it a few times because I loved its results so much.
Word of warning it also adheres too well to smooth PEI sheets and I ruined a print bed using it. Textured PEI only.
Yes. Get quality wood filament. I tried sins no name stuff and it was miserable.
Also have a dryer cause wood soaks up moisture quick
Quick test of a TPU design with PLA caps. Looks and feel great, but flexes way too much. I think it could work with a PLA or PETG core though.
Oh if only my TPU flexed too much lol. Best I can usually get is a little squish as a treat. I just ordered some Recreus filaflex 82a so maybe I’ll finally achieve peak squish nirvana.
I printed one TPU firefly and it’s ok. I think I prefer the hand feel of PLA.
No squish on this one, just too easy to flex to where the gap closes completely on one side and doubles on the other.
If you want squish, IME slicing parameters will help as much or more than softer TPU. For extra squishy stuff one wall, as few top/bottom layers as you can get away with, and 10% or less gyroid works well. Of course that wouldn’t work at all for a yo-yo…
I have one of those Dorks courtesy of Andy, it does feel great, a fun little fixie!
Makes sense. I just really like the idea of a TPU throw because it’s nearly indestructible, and would make popping different side caps in and out super easy.
Need to get a Mod44 and do up some TPU shells
Been meaning to post this one up for a while, here it is. The Laika in regular and teacup sizes. Duncan Satellite inspired fixed axle.
This thing is crazy!
Wow. Impressive.
The printing bit looks great. I wonder how good it will be at the other functions.
Looks really awesome. Way out of my budget though and I don’t need another printer right now no matter how cool it is.
I’ve been looking to retire my P1P, and have been saving Makerworld points for the past 4-5 months, but it’s a bit out of my budget as well. Might be able to swing the base model if I save points for another couple months, but I’m wondering what they’ll charge for the laser upgrade later on.
Edit: Based on current points and average points earned per month so far this year, I’ll have enough for the base model H2D in ~7 months. Could be good timing for the annual black friday / holiday sale.
Messing with PETG-CF, and also seeing if the 0.2mm nozzle has enough detail for making caps out of the MRM logo.
I also grabbed some concave MR105 (“A”) bearings from China to use with printed yoyos. The tolerances are ridiculously sloppy, by far the loudest bearings I’ve ever encountered. Even packing them with thick automotive wheel bearing grease doesn’t totally quiet them down. 
Finally happy with print settings for a TPU counterweight. I used a single outer wall and minimal top/bottom shell layers with 10% gyroid infill to give it some nice flex and soft feeling in the hand, but then added a modifier block in the center of the model with 100% infill to reach a reasonable weight. It was a fine line trying to balance flexible feel, weight, and size. Also trying out the bearing option which supposedly helps reduce string tension build-up.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1256050-flexible-hex-counterweight-for-yoyo#profileId-1279478
I love the solid block to add weight and keep the size down! Did you account for the bearing weight with that too?
