Just get a “good” printer or you will spend allot of time fighting your printer for silly things.
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So ive heard. Im in the process so my finances are shot, but once I can justify ~500 i was planning on doing some more research into getting one
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A bambu labs a1 mini is in the 300-400 range and would be my suggestion for a new person in printing who doesn’t want to tinker.
If you like to tinker then a ender 2 v3 is more than good enough and still has some bells and whistles that make it not a complete pain in the butt.
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I like to tinker, but still went for a Bambu. I’ve spent a fair amount of tinkering with friend’s Enders and the two Prusas at work to really be able to appreciate my Bambu P1P. Not only do I spend more time printing and less tinkering, but I’m able to print a lot more stuff in the same amount of printing time.
And the A1 mini is only $220, but I’d recommend the full size A1 for most people, the bed size of the mini can get limiting fast (unless of course all you want to print is yoyos, in which case it’s perfect).
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So, the colors were a total accident (forgot which filament I had loaded in which AMS slot), and it came out 4g heavier than the slicer predicted, but this one plays quite a bit better than the previous one. The finger cups are a lot of fun, and it’s got a pretty decent response. The longer response holes give it a sound similar to a standard starburst.
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It’s the Yes Jives! Now you too can make your own No Jives yoyo using available parts. Slightly modified shape like a Spitfire and a No Jives had a baby.
Dear BC/TK Yo-Yo. If I can make these with a couple days of fiddling, I know you can bring back the No Jives. Please.
Link below to make your own.
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I had called mine the “Some Jive” 
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I had also considered Jive Turkey, but that may be reserved for my next weirder take on the no jive guts.
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I can picture it already, and I love it.
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Inspired from your work… using an OD axle rather than FD
Taking close-ups really show the defects more than you see in person, and even a bit of the deformation that results from the press fitting (I printed a negative so I could use a vise to fit them consistently). The flat part of the inside cup really is awful, seems to be a difficult thing for the printer to get right. I think I’ll add a full overhang and drill it out in future iterations.
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Question from a non-printer: has anyone done hubstack caps yet??
I just had one of my dice stacks break (OG rice rocket clear 
), came apart in my hand doing a pull start. I immediately started wondering what wacky options may be out there in the 3D print world, as I doubt I’ll be finding a replacement
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Looks great! What size ball bearings did you use?
I plan to make one using SE eventuallly but I don’t have enough pads to make mistakes.
6mm on these (used my entire supply of the size). They’re a bit smaller than the titanium side effect, maybe I’ll do 7mm on the next one.
My pad supply is running low too - either need to buy more response pads or figure out the TPU method. There’s TPU for AMS now, so maybe I’ll buy some of that and just integrate it into the print directly.
Does TPU work for response pads? I would think it would be a terrible choice, as it’s very low friction. I print cable guides/guards for our deep borehole installation equipment at work, and use TPU specifically because it’s the lowest friction filament I can find (and because it has amazing inter-layer bond strength).
FWIW the MYY brand response pads seem to be pretty good quality, and are only ~$5 for 6 pair.
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I made TPU brake pads that work really well but haven’t tried normal response pads yet.
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I’ve printed hubstacks. The ones I’ve printed had a looser fit than the stock YYF ones but they worked well. If I had spent more time on it they would have been better. I wouldn’t be able to print anything like your clear dice stack because I don’t print resin and am limited by materials.
Edit: I do have a modeled die that I could try to repurpose.
I have a goofy amount of dice from TTRPG play, I was thinking of measuring the ID of the different steps inside my good stack and trying to drill out my own.
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There is a hubstack model on the YYBC Share - is that yours Keith?
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Now there’s a fascinating idea. I bought a bunch of die to make CWs out of - and then realized they are a tad light. 4g ea making an 8g Double Die Counterweight. Now you have me wondering if I can make a hubstack of them…hmmm…
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