I print them with a raft and supports. It’s been more of an issue of getting it to stick to the print bed.
I have a feeling I need to play with the calibration screws of my printer.
I’m using an Elegoo Mars with a magnetic print bed add-on and Anycubic Water Washable resin. My success rate so far is like 1 in 6.
ohh resin printing. i have no idea how that works. i’ve thought about getting a cheap resin printer as it supposedly comes out a bit nicer but i have nowhere i could do it with the off gas that would be safe.
Your raft is not sticking to the print bed?
Depends. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t.
Just finished a print now where 1 of the 3 printed. What’s odd is that this time it was the leftmost one, while last time the center one printed.
Ok sounds strange… good luck
I love the quality of resin printing. I hate the hassle. I miss just loading up some filament and printing.
Newly printed unresponsive. Plays ok. Little vibey.
A few updates to methodology. I used grid supports because they removed much cleaner, and I disallowed supports anywhere where the hardware comes in contact with the half. I also went back to the CAD and put a one layer thick cover on the bottom of the axle hole, which convinced the slicer to print that layer as a bridge instead of an overhang, which made that area much cleaner. It came out like this, and then I simply snipped and removed the layer with a burr remover.
Hey Guys! I am new to the forum and I wanted to see what you thought this yoyo I made:
Here are the specs
| DETAIL | VALUE |
| WEIGHT | 60-70g |
| WIDTH | 45mm |
| DIAMETER | 56mm |
| BEARING | Size C |
| AXLE STYLE | M4x20 Hex Bolt and Hex nut |
| RESPONSE PADS | YYF 19mm Pads |
I have a video of me using it here Two Yoyo
Welcome. Looks awesome!
Here is my tip to get the hole to print cleaner without filling and cutting (which also works but is more manual labor)
Make some bridges around the hole so the perimeter has something to rest on.
Fixed my printing issues. Need to replace my FEP film!
Skulls in the shop. Towie Balls coming soon!
Skulls are 12.5 grams.
Towies are 14 grams.
(I’m thinking of dropping the size/weight a bit. Prob 8g for Skulls and 10g for Towies)
How do you force bridging in an area when slicing?
This is a geometry that is modeled in during the design process and is then interpreted as bridges by the slicer
Can you elaborate on how you changed the geometry to get the slicer to recognize these areas as bridges vs circular perimeters?
Its a technique that makers muse shows in this video (section 4). Its kinda tough to explain without screenshots but this video shows it well.
Excellent info. Thank you.
If you need more help let me know and I would be more than happy to go into more detail but I learned all I know from YouTube videos just like this one as well as studying other’s designs. Good luck!
A print in place Balisong trainer. My balisong is wicked heavy so this feels light, but fully functioning. I might have to hide this one from the wife; I doubt she’d approve.
This is a smaller and adapted for Cabal guts version of my Brute fixie. I tried to do the perimeter bridging instead of a sacrificial bridge and it didn’t go great. I think I may have thinned it out too much for a half spec, which was how I was planning to play it 
. Spins pretty well with full spec. Going to iterate and reprint.
about to let the recently upgraded ender v2 go to town on a plate of CW in the 6.5 to 9.5 g weight range. finally finished adding dual z and my dual gear extruder and re calibrating everything added stability arms and upgraded to the latest versions of firmware and software for my printer and slicer. (still haven’t implemented Klipper but that’s a whole thing and every time i look at the effort i just can’t bring myself to do it yet)
