He could print a bracket and move his extruder above. You lose some z height that way but it should work. Been thinking of doing that but I got things to print my machine was out of commission for two weeks due to a stripped extruder gear.
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I’ll probably wait on this then. I don’t feel like tinkering with the machine too much yet. Still learning and feeling things out.
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TPU Knucklebone
Scaled up to 104%. Printed great. No post processing. Plays just fine. Flexible and basically indestructible unless you throw it in a fire.
I’m sure this orientation will be fine with pla too.
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Looks great! I was planning to spray mine white
I spent way too long redoing the CAD and then lost bed adhesion at the end 
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This print was not short for me. Took 1:50.
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I use purple glue stick on most prints. Don’t give up!
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Not giving up. Just trying to print something flatter next 
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Just add a raft or a brim.
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I am figuring this out in Fusion 360. I can do bar supports…
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So does pausing a print = failing a print? Like would I usually be able to resume?
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I just did it in Prusa slicer using the cut command.
You can pause a print either manually at the printer or in the gcode when slicing. You just hit resume to start again. You can keep everything hot and change the filament if you’re about to run out or want to switch colors.
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I was just leaving to pick up kids. I decided against the pause and just left it unattended.
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Printed this neat design that @antman let me try my hand at. I have some banding on the lower part of the print I’m not sure why but it came out pretty well.
Ive sanded the bits that were imperfect and it’s a neat print. I went with ironing on the outer rims which turned out pretty well and feels nice.
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I see you went with the printed axle in lieu of 8x20mm wooden dowels. I was thinking perhaps roughing up the axle surface post print with some light sanding would improve responsiveness and better simulate the feel of a wooden dowel axle. It’s on my to-test-out list.
In any case, some petroleum jelly on the string loop helps with that tug response.
Re your banding, I had some pretty severe issues with round overhangs recently and it was due to ineffective cooling on one side which caused that side to gradually curl up making problems for subsequent layers. I slowed the print way down to allow time for each layer to cool and turned off the enclosure fan on my printer (which only blows from one direction) and it fixed it. Not sure if it’s the same issue for you but check if there’s a difference in the cooling on the bad side and/or any curling up on circular overhangs.
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cooling is a part of my printer ive been meaning to address. thats good advice ill have to investigate a bit.
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Printed a working infinity cube fidget and a too light counterweight. I’m going to design my own before I attempt to reprint a CW with higher infill.
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Yeah CW’s in my opinion have to be 100% infill to get a weight that works well. You also may want to scale up a tad. Your slicer should tell you how many grams of filament it’s using and if so you can get an idea for end weight. Or at least orca slicer has that feature.
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This one I bought the files off @TheThrowingGnome
I still need to mess with part cooling. Maybe a raft or brim would help. Either way it seems I’m struggling on bridging a bit. I wonder what I can do to make that work out better. I guess I’ll need to watch and read a bunch.
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Looks pretty good!
Try reducing the flow rate on bridge layers. Thin bridging worked best on the Big Sun.
Also looks like you need to adjust your z off set and elephant foot compensation just a bit. That is what’s causing the section of 5-10 rough layers. Looks like you’re just a bit too close to the bed on that first layer. Doesn’t really look like a cooling issue tbh.
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