Much like you I am new to yoyos and had the same question about KK vs Ceramic KK bearings. So I ordered a Protostar and a Ceramic KK bearing. From what I have gathered the Ceramic does 3 things better than the stock bearing in a Protostar. First is that it plays a little smoother, Second is that it is quieter (than a cleaned steel bearing), Third is the increase in spin time. The big thing for me was it being quieter as the stock bearing was fairly loud and annoyed the wife. The other thing people are commenting on is that the lifespan of a ceramic when being run dry is much longer than steel bearings, I haven’t been using it long enough to confirm or deny this fact though. The increase in spin time is minimal (30 secs) from my experience, but it is there. I would say if you have the money try it out for yourself and see if you like it, if you don’t have the cash then just a regular KK would work fine. Personally I just spent the money so I can try it for myself. If the bearing is going to last me 2-3 times longer than a steel bearing the steeper upfront cost instantly becomes worth it in the long run (only 1 shipping charge). I am a fan of ceramic but many people feel they are overpriced and offer only minimal improvement. Hope this helps.
First of all, the stock bearing in a protostar is a center-trac bearing. Compared to konkaves, center tracs fail. They are incredibly loud, lubing is not an option, its a requirement. The only difference between a konkave steel and ceramic is that ceramic bearings have ceramic balls. Contrary to popular belief, ceramic bearings are not worth it. They last longer, so what. In fact, kon kaves are not worth it. what a KK bearing does is center the string as it is shaped as such:
Thats right, a U, but not in the extreme, more of a subtle U shape. A konkave has many problems. The Konkave bearing tends to bunch up strings and make unexpected binds. Also, when doing high speed tricks that require the turning of the string, if you turn the wrong way, it is possible to drag the yoyo into a tilt or stop the spin. Things like that can cost you in a competition. However, if you don’t play to win, get a konkave, it’ll make your experience much more fun.
HOWEVER, I reccomend to do this to your dark magic for maximum performance:
-Sand the starburst .5/.75 down
-Replace o-ring with silicone
-Use good string (I perfer snacktime string)
-Ajust gap to your liking
-beadblast, soda blast or satin your rims
-install and break-in a one-drop 10 ball bearing. Not only does the bearing last forever, it also spins long and smooth.
-Cut Schmoove rings (be very careful!)
Improve your throw and any bearing can be as good as a koncave or center-trac or terrapin-X or crucial born groved or whatever you guys use.
Terrapin X wins.And you can turn a OneDrop 10-ball into a Terrapin X OneDrop 10-ball bearing.Or even a General-Yo AIGR Bearing into a Terrapin X General-Yo AIGR Bearing.Through customization.
I had also tried all of them,and was taken aback at the very first throw after switching the standard Bearing with the Terrapin X’s and the only flaw is that they are dry and are VERY noisy.A tiny drop of Thin Lube would be enough to shut it up though.
These Bearings can be requested/bought from fjh123 at YYN or eBay
Well, technically, in terms of string trick wise, yes a one drop would be better. However, from a skill standpoint, any bearing can be a konkave’d bearing by throwing straight. One drop 10 balls last longer then 8 ball bearings (which are standard in all non-one drops) One drop bearings also seem to be smoother then other bearings. A 10 ball is basically a long lasting AGIR.
Also, yes, the video on the flowable silicone demonstrates how to take off the o-ring.