I need help with siliconing

Hello. I’ve siliconed my PGM about two hours ago. When I’ve played with it, it was responsive. What I sould do for going back to unresponsive?

You need to wait around 24 hours until you can play it again. Otherwise it hasn’t set yet making it responsive.

You can also try rubbing a little bit of laundry dryer link on the silicone to help it break in faster.


You can play the yoyo for a while, allowing the response to break-in, or remove the response and start over.

Silicone usually takes about a day to dry completely. Make sure you remove any excess silicone that may have spilled over, gotten in the bearing seat, or is anywhere that is not in the response groove. Silicone that is poured flush might lead to more responsiveness and a break-in period. I pour my silicone a little less than flush, like this ( . This eliminates the break-in period. You can use something like a guitar pick or a library card to help smooth out the silicone in the groove.

No no no guys!!!

You put it in, let it dry for 24hrs, then it will be responsive and grabby for a while.

Sometime, for me, my throws, and PGM, have been responsive for a
Few days- a week.

Gyroscopic flops help…

Ah, I didn’t see that he had only let it sit for 2 hours. Yes you should let it cure fully. Generally 24 hours is best.

You need to clean it out completely now. Since you only let it dry for 2 hours there is most likely silicone all over your string (throw that string away). Once you clean out all of the silicone, repeat the process, making sure to get the silicone flush with or below the recess. Also make sure you allow the silicone to dry for a full 24 hours. I put silicone in a magic yoyo that I got yesterday. The stock response in it is horrible, so I had to switch it. Now my 10 dollar magic yoyo plays as good as my 85 dollar genesis. One last tip… if you get the silicone flush with the recess then it will take a few hours of play before it will become fully unresponsive. If you can manage to get a bit of a concave shape to the silicone then it will be immediately unresponsive. Good luck.

I didn’t wrote it here, but ı did clean out my yoyo and done this stuff again, let it dry for 24 hours. When I picked it up for playing, it was responsive, and I managed to tear a pad partially. So what should I do? And can you guys give any tips to me whem I’m siliconing my yoyo with red RTV 'cause that is what I use.

PS: I did spin my yoyos with holding from hubsacks, and I think it made my work worse. Am I right?

The PGM’s pad reccess is very thin. So the pads wear out or rip out quickly. Either that or your siliconing job wasn’t that good. I think it mostly is the yoyo, or that you made it too thin.

Well, I tried to give a groove to it ;D and I think that was the thing that let my pads of silicone to tear off. Thanks for your advices, fellow yoyoers. I will take these tips when I will do my next siliconing and I will take my help from here when I need it.



See ::).

Thats not always true. Ive siliconed many of my yoyos, all of which were unresponsive as soon as I played with the 24 hour cured silicone. Please refrain from using Caps, it’s quite obnoxious.

@OP Your problem most likely lies in the fact you waited only 2 hours. Just take it out and then re-silicone it. This time, put slightly less. Wait 24 hours. The reason why I say less is you can always add more, but if there’s too much, you have to pretty much start over.


He said he tried again and let it sit for 24hrs. Please read the whole thread ::)::)::).

I’m not saying that its always going to be responsive after silicone, but if it is responsive that’s the cause…

Also, try flowable silicone. For me, it works the best.

Flowable is easy. Anything else seems like too much of a chore. :wink:

I find PGMs are hard to make completely unresponsive. Try again, but don’t feel badly that it didn’t work. You won’t be the first person to make a PGM go responsive with a silicone job!

For me it just takes some break in time. I had it the hard way, Adhesive Silicone. That stuff is so hard to apply its not even funny.

But once you get that stuff in it last months and months longer than any silicone. I have had Adhesive silicone in my PGM for 3 months.

It has had more for 5 months but I removed it due to painting and stripping.

I’ve done a bunch of silicone jobs with red RTV, so here is what I do. You want to make sure the recess is nice and clean before you silicone it. I use a Q-tip or a paper towel with rubbing alcohol or something on it to get it really clean. As long as you are at it, you could wipe up the bearing seat too. If I am still having trouble getting the silicone to stick I might rough up the bottom of the recess, but usually a squeaky clean recess works.

When putting in the silicone, a small opening in the applicator is helpful. I work on a paper towel and have an extra ready to wipe the applicator and credit card. I put the tip of the applicator on the recess and gently squeeze the silicone tube to start filling the recess. I often back up the tip slightly as I go, so that it pushes the silicone into the corners of the recess and so there are no bubbles or voids. Once I have gone around, I look to see if there are any places that could use a little more. Once that is done, I take the rounded corner of a credit card, put it against the recess and pull it around the recess as I turn the yoyo below it. It is better to do this with one smooth motion, but if you start getting too much extra silicone build up, pull it off and wipe the credit card with the paper towel. If you end up with some spots that need smoothing, you can go around the whole recess again with one smooth motion. This is done by rotating the yoyo under the card. It takes a little practice to pull the card off of the silicone without making a bump from lifting off.

Insead of a real credit card, I use the fake ones they send in the mail or an old library card. I have also trimmed a couple of the corners to have a larger rounded edge so I could do a shallower groove/recess in the silicone. The flat side of the card is also good for doing a flat, flush silicone job. If you don’t have a card available, a spoon can do the job.

It is super important not to get the silicone in the bearing seat, so if you are going to be messy, it is best to do it outside of the recess. It will be tempting to clean up any extra silicone while it is still wet, but it is best to just leave it at least until everything is partially cured. Then you can just rub the dried silicone to get off the excess.

I find that after the silicone fully cures, it is usually responsive for several throws, depending upon how well I did the job and how recessed the silicone is. If it’s too responsive, I will usually just keep playing it until it breaks in. If it is super responsive or if it seems like it is not breaking in, it usually means that some small bit of the silicone got into the bearing seat, which will need to be removed.

I find that a good red RTV silicone job lasts a really long time.

Have fun!

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For the PGM, I find the recess to be shallow, so it’s better for a pre-made pad. If you do wish to silicone it, it will work fine, but you don’t wan to recess it. Simply scrape off the excess and let it cure for 24 hours and you’re good to go.

Also, best you can, please read the instructions on your product packages.

Really? It’s easy as cake for me, since its wide.

Some people take responsiveness to seriously. I mean, can’t you play with a semi responsive yoyo for a few days?