Siliconing a yoyo - Recess or flush?


#1

I’m about to silicone my first yoyo, a Juggernaut by Dif-E-Yo
I really like the yoyo, though i do hate the dif-pads. Anyways, as the title says, should i recess the silicone or just flush it?


#2

Most people will generally say to recess it just a little bit. I agree with this. Flush is often a bit too grabby and takes longer to break in. Doing it recessed, you avoid the break-in period.


#3

laugh as you like… but I silicone’d my Dark Magic II and I made sure to recess it… its got ultra tight binds now and plays awesome (Trifecta Bearing with the Silocone is perfect for me).


#4

I agree. I do that at least once a month on my DM2, minus the Trifecta bearing. I feel it plays way better with flowable than YYJ pads. But, I was pressed for time so I had to use YYJ pads not too long ago. The string I’m using is kinda rough on the silicone but it lasts freakin’ forever!

Nothing to laugh at. The Trifecta bearings are really ncie, and the DM2 is a great throw, and flowable rocks. Killer combo!


#5

Thanks!
I’ve siliconed the yoyo now, turns out the stuff i bought wasnt “self leveling”. Does it matter?


#6

First, what did you buy? If you got it at an automotive place, chances are you’re fine. If you got stuff for bathtubs, sinks and showers, it’s not gonna work so well.

Second, the flowable window/glass sealing silicone is preferred because it is self leveling. However, people have been using the blue, red and black gasket making silicone for quite some time(years perhaps) with little to no issues. What works best is based on preferences. As far as addressing the issues about self leveling and recessing, it can still be done quite easily. One can use the back of a spoon, a credit card or a guitar pick(depending on shape, which corner to use) to scrape a recess or make it flush. As long as this is done relatively early in the curing process(such as shortly after being installed), you shouldn’t have any problems.

However, if you did not remove the excess and it has cured, you’ve kinda screwed yourself, but all is not lost. You can still trim the excess with a razor blade. To be honest, I have trouble with this. Others can and have done this. The downside is you can’t recess it at this point.The other choice is to yank it out and do it again but do it right this time. Practice makes perfect. After you’ve done this a couple of times, you’ll most likely have it down pretty good.


#7

It didnt really say on the package… Though ive managed to flush it just fine. Will it be easy to removed whem cured? I did got quite a bit down in the bearing-seat


#8

Can you provide a link to the product?

When you silicone a yoyo, you need to remove the bearing first. Why? Because everyone gets some in the bearing seat. Remove any silicone from the bearing seat area before replacing the bearing. Worse case is you can wreck a bearing, but the odds are more that the worse case is you get silicone in the bearing and you have to go blow it out.

Will it remove easily? I hear flowable removes easily, but that hasn’t been my experience. Red, blue and black can sometimes be difficult to remove. Either way, we’re talking “a few minutes”, not major work. Sometimes it’s as simply as “push a pin in, pull out”.


#9

Ofc, there’s no bearing or axle there when siliconing :stuck_out_tongue: though i was a bit messy and managed to get a bit into the bearing seat.
Heres the product: http://www.clasohlson.com/no/Casco-silikon/Pr349336002
What it says is: Elastic filler/putty/whatever for houses, cars, boats and baths. Works on PVC, stone … and metal


(WildCat23) #10

I always recess it. Much quicker break in time.


#11

Well, worse case is it doesn’t work too well and you have to yank it out.

Siliconing can be messy, so your observations are nothing out of the ordinary. I use a very bright light to check and ensure I got out all the extra silicone from all the wrong places. Flowable tends to be the easiest to use an “cleanest” but still requires some clean-up. Red, blue and black have to be pressed into the recess and end up being messy on the install but clean up pretty good and easily.

Let it cure, clean out the stuff from the wrong places, blow it out to be safe and you should be pretty good. Hopefully, your first silicone job goes well!


#12

Thanks! I will :slight_smile: Next time ill make sure i get the “good” stuff though!


#13

So, after curing for about 60 hours or so, it turned out pretty good. Until i threw a really hard throw and decided to bind right away. The string tore of a big chunk of silicone from one of the halves.
Is this normal, and i wasn’t being careful, or not normal?


#14

not normal. are you sure you mean hours, and not minutes?
normal flowable, and non self-leveling, should cure in 24 hours (1 Day). it shouldn’t rip out


#15

60 hours? Most RTV products that are normally used recommend a 24 hour cure time. Some other “bathroom/kitchen” products can have a cure time in as little as 3 hours.

It could be your string, it could be you didn’t let it cure enough. Once the stuff is in and cured, play it as normal. You shouldn’t need to adjust how you play to suit a response system. Well, unless you just play really bad and in which case: go practice more!


#16

That’s rubberized grout silicone. Not the right stuff. Buy monkey snot from this website. Good to go. And recess just a little. If i may throw in another question. What does everyone use to recess? I’ve been filling in and shake and bump to settle then I use a 50 cent piece to go around and then wipe excess away. Leaves a very small formed “dent”. thought this was relevant to OP’s question.


#17

Yes, i mean hours. The package said that curing time was between 2-5 days (48-120 hours). Since the response groove isn’t that deep, i thought 60 hours was sufficient… This was non-leveling stuff, turns out. And i use regular YYE poly strings!
I’m definitely no pro, though i’m pretty sure it wasn’t my lack of skills that destroyed the silicone-job!


#18

Ghost: … As we found out, lol :stuck_out_tongue:
Can you define “rubberized grout”? My English isn’t that good.
I tried with the rounded edge of a playing card. Made a maybe bit too deep recess. So i filled it up right away and went with flushing the silicone


#19

Ok so you used this as was linked right?

Look at where the silicon is being put. It’s a soft rubbery silicone that falls apart really easily. It’s meant for grout tiles in the bathroom. And it’s not even a top brand even for that.

What you need is something more like this:

Automotive store is a good place to look as well for flowable silicone windshield and glass sealer
It needs to say flowable silicone.
Or you could get monkey snot.
Both of which can be found here:

http://shop.yoyoexpert.com/category/27/Response


#20

Yeah, thats the stuff i used!
That Permaxtex-brand isn’t avaliable in Norway. Think i’ll just by with some the next time i order something from YYE :slight_smile: