Free Hand Zero help

So last christmas i got a FHZ and i liked it for the most part. Then one day i was doing a trick and the yoyo shot into my hand randomly. It is still doing that but only on tricks from a split bottom mount. I was wondering if it was my problem or the yoyo’s. I was also wondering if any of you guys have had this problem and if so how didi you fix it?

1: Clean the bearing. It will help a lot.
2: Consider removing 1 sticker. It will make it MORE unresponsive.
3: Practice more. Sloppy technique can cause any yoyo to do that, especially if you’re spreaing strings or a throw that’s a little off.

Once the bearing breaks in and goes fully unresponsive, it’s a much nicer yoyo. I do think almost everyone should have a stock FHZ in their collection.

How does it become unresponsive. I was wondering if i should silicon it but i could not find any videos for it.

if you’re wanting to silicon recess it, its best to send it to a modder, like landon balk, icthus, ricerocket, etc. but for about the same price you could just pick up a YYF Whip. great throw, plays like a FHZ with mods already done to it!

So about that whole unresponsive thing studio metioned, is that like you have to use it enough. Cause i have used it quite a bit.

To silicone it would be a bad idea AS-IS. It is a sticker recess, not a silicone recess, so it expects a silicone sticker. If you need this done, you can send it to a modder. I had one I purchased modded and painted from xminusmikex and it’s amazing, an amazing value and well, it’s just freakin’ amazing!

1: Clean the bearing. DO NOT LUBE!! Run it dry.
2: Use the larger spacers. I think those are the aluminum ones. Use one on each side, wider gap.
3: Wear down or scrape off the rubber from one of the response stickers so it’s pretty much just bare tape.
4: Remove the other response sticker.

Both stickers will make it responsive for the most part. A friend recently got one and it went from “I’m barely responsive” to “Yup, I’m full dead unresponsive” on me while I was playing it, so we succeeded in breaking in the bearing.

Other options are to buy the Terrapin X A+ Beefcake kit for FHZ’s. I need to order some bearings anyways, might as well hit him up for some goodies!

So i decided to get dif pads and was wondering what thickness i should get.

I think you should start off by rubbing down one or both response pads and consider removing one.

What have you done to this yoyo so far? Because right now, you don’t need to buy anything.

Again, clean the bearing and place it back bone dry, use the widest spacers it came with and then remove a sticker. It’s the most common set of mods done to this yoyo with well documented results.

Make sure you remove the shields when you clean the bearing.

Heck I may buy another FHZ this weekend just to do these mods to. But I know that even after I do so, until I break in that bearing, it will still be semi-responsive for a while.

I was on spinworkx and they didn’t say to remove the bearing shields when you clean the bearing. So far I have only taken one sticker off of my FHZ. It fixed the whole randomly shooting back to my hand mid-trick, but it is still super responsive.

You need to remove your shields when cleaning.

Regarding the other sticker: is is pretty much fabric only at this point? It’s sounding like a combination of cleaning the bearing to remove any gunk in there from manufacturing, and then playing it more to break it in. What color spacers do you have in there right now? You might want the larger set of spacers that come with the FHZ. At least I think 2 sets of spacers come with the FHZ.

I have the silver spacers in right now. I am trying to get the clips that hold the shields in place out but it isn’t coming out. I waas wondering what you think i should use to do that. And one more thing, do i need to put the shields back in after cleaning?

I use an exacto knife to pop the little clips that hold the shields on - but be careful, exacto knives are razor sharp. You don’t have to put the shields back on, but you can. I usually don’t because it makes it easier to clean the bearing the next time it needs to be cleaned.

I got the clips out and was wondering how long i should shake the bearing? Also how llong does it take to dry?

It depends on what you used to clean it. I usually shake it for 15 or 20 seconds in acetone then take it out and spin it with my finger on the end of a pen until it spins for a long time. If I’ve used acetone, it might only take about 20 seconds. If you use mineral spirits, it can lake longer.

how long is a long time as far as spin time goes? And how hard shoud i be spinning it?

Just got done cleaning the bearing and was wondering if it is still suposed to be responsive cause mine is. If it isn’t supposed to be responsive then i don’t know what else to do. I have removed 1 sticker and am wearing down the other i think.

If you nave the silver spacers installed, the gap could be too narrow to play unresponsively since the pad is not recessed. Honestly, if the yoyo is still responsive, there is nothing wrong with that, except that it will make you a better player. I practice responsive at least one or two days a week, because it makes your movements smoother and more controlled.

If the yoyo is still returning on a split bottom mount, then it is very likely that you are doing something wrong. Even the most responsive yoyos can handle a split bottom mount. You could have too much tilt, you could be doing the mount backwards, you could be putting too much slack in the string. It is most likely you and not the yoyo, and making the yoyo unresponsive will not solve your problems.

The best thing to do is to replace your friction stickers with silicone stickers. They aren’t as grabby as the stock stickers and last longer.