I’m waiting on my first FHZ in the mail as we speak. I’m very interested in modding it, either myself or sending it off to a reputable modder. My question is, what is the easiest method to get it fully unresponsive(i.e.- able to do ninja vanishes and lacerations w/o snapping back.) Can I keep the “A” size bearing, clean the bearing, and only use 1 response sticker or do I need to silicone recess it? Do I need to convert it to a “C” sized bearing? If so, would the easiest method be to make a recess the right size for a Crucial SPR or what? I’m leaning towards recessing it for a SPR setup and going with a OD 10 ball bearing or a CBC Center Track bearing and just flowable silicone or pads into the SPR. Is there an easier method? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I’m new to modding FHZ’s.
I know you PM’d me about this and I enjoyed getting the PM. I just wanted to say a couple of things.
Once I ordered the customized FHZ from XminusmikeX, I was already debating getting a FHZ anyways. Why? Lots of people have them. I’m collecting and throwing, and not to succumb to peer pressure, but if it’s something a LOT of people have, perhaps I should have it too so I can relate to them better. So, the XminusmikeX comes along and messes my plans up with an offer I cannot refuse and I have to go for it. The price is insane! For what I paid for double silicone recesses and shmoove rings was fantastic, but then the paint job on top of that. Man, I love LOOKING at this yoyo.
The thing that got me going down this mod’ed route was the fact that Duncan’s response systems in these don’t last all that long, and I don’t want to constantly buy friction stickers. I like flowable silicone.
But, before i got mine in the mail, I also went to a local hobby store with the intent to purchase a FHZ anyways provided they had it in the color I wanted, which not only did they, but it was the front one on the peg. It was saying “take me home and play with me!” Opened it, played it, yeah, typical Duncan performance from a yoyo at this price and level.
Then, 3 days later, it arrives. It does NOT play like a FHZ is all I’m gonna say. It plays like, well I don’t know, a BVM perhaps?
So, why did I have done what I had done?
First, it was clear, so painting could be done on the INSIDE and would be protected. No nicks, dings, scratches, peeling, cracking or flaking.
Second, silicone recesses mean I don’t have to worry about friction or silicone stickers ever!
Third, the shmoove rings were suggested and hey, sure, why not.
He also cleaned the bearing to help make it more unresponsive.
It makes me wonder why Duncan doesn’t just make them this way in the first place?
The only thing I would change about this is that I will be getting a Terrapin X bearing for it. Why? I like them and am ordering a bunch soon anyways.
So, I can compare “stock” vs. Mod’ed. This serves multiple purposes. As i intend to do yoyo intro in schools(hey, here’s an activity you might not have considered…), I can also show that “we can also modify yoyos to work better than they come from the factory in some cases”, so now that pair becomes an important tool in my collection. My custom FHZ is not my main throw, but it does need daily attention. I mean, every time I look at it, I want to pick it up and throw it.
However, I would be willing to pay to have another one modified with the Crucial SPR to be installed and play it as a C bearing instead of an A bearing and then put in a Terrapin X wing-cut bearing in there and add shmoove rings as well. I’d have to go with a different colorway though!
I’m very pleased with the work done on that FHZ. If he can do a mod to put in the Crucial SPR, I’d gladly send him the parts and the fee and wait for it to come back.
Thank you once again! I definitely have love for the a sized bearing because it seems that every yoyo has a c bearing to be unresponsive nowadays. I’m just the kind of person that takes pride in knowing I made something. That’s why I’ll be looking forward to modding one myself. I’ll play my ltd Ed stock and maybe buy aanother fhz to experiment with modding. I just want to know if I can achieve the level of unresponsive play I’m looking for without modding to a c bearing. If everyone says I need a c bearing in the fhz for the gap width and unresponsiveness I’m looking for then I’ll either try to make the recess for the spr or other route for the c bearing myself or send it to a nodded(probably minusmike, because I hear he’s the most reasonably priced and I’ve heard he does great work: if Zammy is happy with his fhz, why wouldn’t I?)
I definitely hear the desire and pride of wanting to do these sort of things on your own. I know the feeling. Having to design a top of the line sound production system from the ground up is quite a challenge.
In my case, I have to put into consideration that I lack the skillset to do the work in the first place. Second, I lack the tools. While I can correct both issues, I have to look at my time. You seem a bit more willing to learn this. I commend that.
Odd how I’m comfortable dealing with gear costing me in the tens of thousands of dollars, yet an inexpensive yoyo intimidates me. Oh well. We know what we know.
I’m gonna talk to a few of the people on the chat room on Wednesday if time permits. One of them is a fan of small bearings. Also, since I’m buying a bunch of Terrapin X bearings anyways, might as well stock up a little bit and cover my bases.
I also like to support the community, which clearly you do to. I have no issue sending my stuff to known modders. Spread the love, spread the wealth. I’m pleased with the work from XminusmikeX, so I’d have no issue sending stuff to him.
Your last line is your best argument. If Zammy likes his FHZ, then yeah, I can’t argue that kind of logic.
Please let me know how that small bearing vs large bearing convo goes on the chat. Pm me if you’re on and I’ll try to get on if time permits. I’d prefer to stay small bearing because I like it in general and that means less modding/less money involved but the end result in performance is my main priority. Thanks!
Cleaning the bearing and using just one sticker goes a long way to making it unresponsive. For more durability switch to the duncan silicone stickers.
I think the FHZ bearing works fine as it is. I have put a C bearing in one using a set of spacers that used to be available from dif-e-yo and really didn’t see much difference. I did the same thing with a spintastics maestro and liked that better with a C bearing.
Some people like to put these in there plastic Duncans.
Gives you a gap of 4.8mm in a FHZ with stock spacers. No problem with a bind.
The wing cut all but eliminates the annoying groove of a beefcaked bearing.
Just drop 'em in and throw…
The bearings I use are thinner then the standard A size