Totally agree with you, getting a bearing remover is a good investment for your bearing maintenance and for accessibility (basically you can bring it anywhere on the go) but resorting to pliers is a last option I consider if the bearing are too tight on the seat.
Best removers I can think of is YYF multitool and Duncan Toys Yo-Tility Holster plus is very cheap too.
If youâre sticking with the hobby for a long time, the YYR Bearing Extractor (also called Azumi Techno Bearing Remover) is absolutely worth the price so that you never have to resort to pliers for bearing seats that are too tight.
Iâd love this. A bit out of my budget. Yoyofriends and I think Topyo have basic ones that can remove C- and D-size bearings. These are both better than, say, the Magicyoyo or Yoyofactory ones that only support removal of C-size bearings.
A couple of further corrections to my own comment directly above:
Although the Yoyofriends tool can be used to remove C bearings, I wouldnât recommend it for this purpose. It is a fraction smaller than the Magicyoyo tool that I have, making it uncomfortably loose and wiggly when trying to remove a C bearing. If youâre getting it as a D-bearing removal tool, itâs perfectly fine.
I mentioned Topyo possibly having a multi-bearing use, but that was incorrect. It does have a multi-purpose tool for removing C bearings and holding a yoyo half for polishing, but not for D bearing removal. The Topyo tool can be found on YYE for just $3.99 ⌠but currently out of stock.
I was thinking of this one from Yoyoball that can also be found on YYE for $9.99 (though also currently out of stock). I believe this is the same one as the Yoyofriends tool; they look the same.
So long story short, if you need a cheap solution for C and D bearing removal, try out the Topyo tool and the Yoyoball / Yoyofriends tool.
guys i realiszed my mistake but now what should i do?
To prevent the premature string damage, you will need to smooth down the area of yo-yo that has been roughed-up by the pliers.
How to do this depends on the extent of the damage to the aluminum. It doesnât take much to cut a string, so the damage may be minor enough to remove by rubbing the area with a sturdy cloth (denim etc). If that doesnât work, you can try steel wool. If that doesnât work, very fine grit sandpaper. The key is to use the lightest touch needed to smooth things out.
You will probably have better results if you remove the response pads, especially if you are using steel wool or sandpaper which will contaminate the pads with gritty material that will create more string issues.
Post a picture of the damage so we can give accurate recommendations.
I assume we are dealing with the gouged areas outside the response area pictured in the first post. . .
Its hard to see the extent of damage from that picture.
Angled pictures and a little closer would really help.
I still think a Nail Polishing board could work, but want to confirm.
I also think it may be on the ring between response and bearing from looking at the fray on the loop of the string.
The fine nail file suggestion is also what I would try if itâs real jagged. A piece of scotch brite is often enough to smooth an edge down to the point it doesnât cut string anymore. The less material you try to remove the better.
I also recommend âwet sandingâ which simply means that you dampen your abrasive with water before sanding. It will get you a smoother finish.
Ivan
I seen a lot of videos online suggesting pliers. I never felt comfortable enough without finding an old Tshirt and wrapping it up. Always gotta remember to use protection.
