Here’s a simple one I made. Picture should show you how.
Just a curved piece of poster board from the bottom/front curving up the back side which gives you a depth of field. I had a light in the top to carry it around at 1st but with chrome or mirror polished items it really left a glare. Now I just use a slight curve of poster board for the top so even a top down shot on chrome has just white. Tracing paper over the lamps with 60 or 75 watt bulbs.
I use a old (2002) 4-mb CanonG3, I think they’re on G15 now. 
If you have a white balance setting it definitely helps the sensor from under-exposing due to so much white. The same as a snow scene as the camera sensor is trying to ‘average’ the gray scale which really throws off a lot of white in a scene.
With the G3 you can meter a scene and use that setting for a custom white balance. Works well for a light box or other bright scenes. Also setting it to overexpose can help but will wash out colors quickly too. If you have an exposure bracket setting it can help. Shooting a lower ISO will saturate a bit better and have the least grainy pics. As mentioned shooting in RAW over a compressed format will be better for software adjustments but I haven’t gotten that serious yet and just use .jpeg as its worked ok for me so far. I’m not blowing anything up for print or high-def online though.
The fastest and easiest I found for myself on spinning pics I start around 1/500th where it ‘freezes’ all motion at that speed. Then I start dialing back the shutter speed for the amount of blur I want.
Taking pics of yoyo’s has been as fun for me as playing them.
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Don’t forget to try a black light.
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And learn your camera. With some camera settings like ‘Vivid’ (over-saturation of colors) and ‘dither’ you can make some neat photos. Usually these settings are with your black & white, sepia, etc. Crop in, slap a border on there and it doesn’t look like a standard light box photo anymore.
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Or try using candle light with the white light. On nickel the candle light gave many colors.
Have fun!