That’s okay. What do you think of the new yo-yo I made? And is the axle hole length the proper size for an 8mm axle?
No critisism, just a thought: How about some more originality in the profile shape? This is basically a Klondike, Wild, Papercut, etc. We have lots of those floating around these days.
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@crackout
Is it? Okay, I don’t look at other yoyos that much. I just looked at the ones you mentioned and I see what you mean. This was kind of a base of the cheatcode though. I’m going to make another yoyo and I want it to be unique in some way. What kind of shape/ unique quality would you suggest?
Don’t get me wrong, this shape has proven to perform well. If your goal is to create a yoyo that profits from that field experience, you are on target.
If you want to create a style for a possible brand or something unique in general, you may want to reconsider.
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@crackout
Okay, thanks for the advice! In the future I might try to sell yoyos I design but I think right now I am just getting experience. Is there anything you would like to see on a yoyo that you haven’t seen before or is cool that I might be able to design? Also I love your cat in your profile picture!
Much appreciated, but I handle these urges myself. 
Ah, I see. Well thanks anyway!
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This design is perfectly fine and you can move on to the next project!
The very fine details are only particularly important if you have a design you are planning on prototyping/starting a business with, IMO
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I made a plastic yoyo. Was a lot trickier than I thought and the dimensions are kind of extreme. Thoughts anyone?
Specs:
Width: 52 mm
Diameter: 64 mm
Half Weight: 27 grams
Material: Polycarbonate Plastic
MMOI: 16957
When I change the material to Delrin though I get a half weight of 30 grams and an MMOI of 19322.
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I’ve been thinking about designing a bimetal yoyo. Is there anything I need to know before I do? I’m not quite sure how to integrate the steel with the aluminum. Can anyone elaborate?
You won’t be able to drive the axle directly into plastic here like you can on a metal yoyo. Plastics need some way of pressing everything together that has metal threads. You can use hub/spacer, overmolded hub, bolt/nut, etc.
I talk about steel rings in this video.
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Oh, okay. I didn’t know that. How do I design that to go in the yoyo? Thanks for the video too. Why do you need to fillet the edges on the outside where the steel meets the aluminum? And what type steel should I use? A4 Stainless Steel, Stainless Steel, Carbon Steel, Something else?
I remade two of my monometal designs. Are these any good?
Specs:
Width: 52mm
Diameter: 56.5mm
Half Weight: 31.54 grams
MMOI: 17000
Specs:
Width: 49mm
Diameter: 57mm
Half Weight: 32.61 grams
MMOI: 18488.6
How much of an increase in MMOI should I expect to see when I change a yo-yo to bimetal?
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Hey all, I have a question about inverse curve/H shapes, just because I’ve never thrown anything with an extreme inverse curve.
I’m sure someone here can set me straight.
If the point of the inverse curve is to reduce contact surface area, it does so by changing the angle of entry into the string gap. If that angle becomes too perpendicular to the gap would there be a noticeable delay in the string transitioning from the curve into the string gap (or even having the string catch in the upper side curve when doing sideways tricks).
I’m guessing the reduced friction outweighs the slower transition into the gap and the answer is ‘negligible difference’. But sideways tricks look like a hassle on some of the more extreme bell shapes around.
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Specs:
Width: 35mm
Diameter: 42mm
Half Weight: 32.5g
MMOI: 9528
I think that the MMOI is too low but I couldn’t make it much higher without the yoyo being really heavy. Is this good?
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I haven’t really done a design video for this yet, but you can take one of your existing plastics and pop out the hub to see how it looks.
Here’s a screenshot of the hub/spacer parts of the Mk1 Tangent. White here is POM, the other parts are aluminum.
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Tangent looks so good.
It would be awesome if you offered a service selling bundles of brass hubs engraved with custom images. You could maybe license the design but then I’d still need to make my own
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If I had my own laser engraver something like this might make sense. As it is, someone would have to want a lot of these to make it cost effective.
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All good, if it turns out that you end up with a surplus of blank hubs and have dead stock sitting on a shelf I’d definitely buy some