Hey guys I need some advice. For the bearing yoyo my grandpas making me this weekend I know it cant be a solid piece of wood so i want to make a cup similiar to 3YO3s and I was going to put O rings on to make it heavier but will this bring it over 60g? tHANKS Oh and the yoyo will be about 56mm dia and 44mm wide
Tell your grandpa he is an awesome guy. He’s lathing you some yo-yos, that puts him on a tops list in my eyes…XD As for the weight rings, It depends on the material. I mean, look at Dif-e-yo weight rings, some versions are way heavier. Just look around at different one’s, they should have a weight on them (or package). And if you can feel it in your hand, then it’s probablya decent weight.
Ok thanks!
Wood is good, eh? 
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Throw some tung oil on there, BPhilly?
Got mine today, too! Keepin’ er natural.
Finding it a bit more unresponsive than I anticipated, but as I play it, I’m discovering that if I huck it harder that I would with my Baldwin, that it’ll still respond. Going to try some thicker string; considering narrowing the gap a little. Friction sticker was suggested to me but that’ll probably be my last resort.
BPhilly; noticed that you’re doing the opposite-- making the gap WIDER. 
Do you bind return it, then?
less than a day in, and I’m loving it. After playing the Baldwin and LoveJoy, I was starting to get a feel for where my preferences lay, and here it is! Already made for me.
Yeah, I debated keeping it natural, but I decided stain it to match my Jamboo. I used Tru Oil, which is designed for use on refinishing rifle stocks. Really great stuff. I drilled the response holes a little bit deeper and filled them with silicone. The gap looks wide because I didn’t have it screwed all the way in in the picture. It’s tug responsive right now. Still playing with the gap size to see what I like best. I did remove the hubstack o-ring from the axle as that left the gap a bit too big. This is my first fixed axle and I’m really enjoying it!
Did you find the silicone in the holes made a difference? It can be removed if it doesn’t work out, so I could just experiment… but wondering how you’ve found it!
Yeah, it’s working nicely. The tru-oil has a glossy finish, so it took away a lot of the natural “response” of the raw wood. I may add a sticker in the future if I widen the gap, but for now it plays great.
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for what it’s worth, i sand my axles to narrow the gap right to where i like it. i’m very particular about my axles. be careful if you do it because making the planes just a little off-parallel can induce a vibe. also as you break that string in a bit, you should find it more responsive.
psyched you guys snagged one. love that finish!
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I’ve been throwing a ProFly(Best $5 I’ve ever spent.) for the past two days after discovering the “Fixed Friday” section of YoYoNews.com(Those videos are INSANE, by the way. I highly suggest anyone to check them out if you haven’t.) Ed just gets better and better, and a lot of what he does is so hard. I wonder if people who haven’t tried fixed/responsive play even realize just how legit what he’s doing is. Responsive play can really be hard on your knuckles. It can be frustrating, discouraging, and unforgiving; but it can also be very rewarding. It’s a very interesting dance, and I can very much appreciate it. What Ed and Drew have shown can be done by progressing so heavily into fixed/responsive is just amazing to me. I really do hope we see more people playing fixed/responsive in the future, and in competitions. It’s funny that there’s this kendama craze in the yoyo community, because I think fixed play shares a lot in the feeling of and flow of tricks that draws people to kendama. So I wonder, “Why not a fixed axle craze?” As for me, I’m still throwing my ProFly. My knuckles are scared and not happy with me. I guess you have to pay to play, and I really want to play. I’ve basically just been doing stalls today, but it’s so much fun. So anyway, those videos inspired me to give fixed play another shot. Go check them out, they’re awesome.
edit: Trick Theory
I use a Profly too, I love mine. It’s an excellent all around fixie.
@homba thanks for those [incredibly] kind words. it feels so good when people let us know they’re checking it, let alone if they think it’s rad. i totally TOTALLY agree on the kendama point. the rhythm of the medium is really similar (as is the frustration). i hope you’ll dig the entry this week - we’ve got something fun planned for the ‘barradrewda takeover week’.
Don’t you show an o-ring in your pics? I thought you were using that to widen your gap.
*edit… Oops, quoted the wrong post. This is a question for BPhilly
Yeah, I had the o-ring on for a while, but the gap was too big and it required a bind return, so I took it off. I am currently playing it without the o-ring.
Waiting to try out some different string to see if it becomes responsive in the way I like. I cannot currently hand-start or snap-start the EH. Easy hand-starting is one of the benefits of responsive play!
I do like Ed’s idea of sanding down the axle a bit. I’ll give the string a shot, and then it’ll be sanding time for me, too!
@ed
Sounds great. I’m looking forward to it.
A few ufo’s go a long way.
And they’re a blast to execute.
How do different types of wood axles(birch, oak, cherry, walnut, etc…) affect play?
What do you guys think of the TMBR Baldwin?
How does the Baldwin compare to the Fremont, and which do you prefer?
Thanks
The Fremond and Baldwin are in different categories. The Fremont is a looper. The Baldwin is more string trick/stall oriented.
I prefer the Love Joy. Gives you string play performance, but isn’t totally stall friendly. I have a long ways to go.