An axle that is not broken in will have some rough looking spots on it. A broken in axle will be relatively smooth.
A broken axle is fairly obvious. They usually snap from mis-handling the yoyo.
A worn axle will be just that. If you play one long and hard enough it will show signs of wear. I’ve never got one to that point yet.
A non broken in axle will also generally snag a bit more and play a tad more responsive while a broken in axle will still play responsive but better then an non broken in one. If that made any sense.
Hey does anyone have any sweet mods for their butterfly configured No Jives? I used a hubstack oring to widen the gap a bit, but I’m wondering what else can be done.
i dunno about ‘sweet mods’. the oring-shim always made the gap a bid on the wide side for me, so i’d always add a dead duncan sticker to keep moons snappy. tuning a no jive is just about getting it to play at its best and most consistent. there’s only so many variables - gap, axle, and grain, really. unless you’re talking about structural mods, which i know nothing about.
Thanks Ed, I’ll give the dead sticker a try. Call me crazy, but bind returns seem to difficult for a nearly dead yoyo where good ol’ friction seems better.
There’s really no need for a bind return with a fixed axle yoyo.
unless its my tmbr Irving. Things dead unresponsive.
I now have 3 imperials, and a butterfly. The butterfly plays exceptionally better than the imperial…
Frankly I find that really hard to believe. String on wood will always have friction, thus response…
I guess you will just have to take my word for it. Thing has a pretty wide gap for a wood fixie.
I’ve had to bind with wood. Especially if it’s a new string. I actually find it hard to believe you haven’t had to bind with it 
Maybe one of us is doing something wrong lol.
Yeah… but I’ve had that before. I’ve got my Fremont in a sweet spot now… but I’ve had it before where if it’s just single looped around the axle, I’d HAVE to use a bind return. I’ve since tightened the gap a bit and that made a great amount of difference.
It was kind of nice though. Single loop was unresponsive, but double loop was snappy responsive.
I keep my No-Jives setup so that they require a bind when I snap start, or when it’s spinning especially slow. There’s friction, there’s just not enough at low RPMs. I typically need to bind with the Irving Pro, unless I have the string double looped or I have the string tension waaaay tight - but even then it sometimes requires a bind.
Awesome video, Ed.
ok - must just be me…
That, or you’re just not using as-wide-as-possible gaps like us youngins.
Quoted from Ed to keep this on the current page:
Plus it’s fun to do Brent stoles on a wood fixie 
The gaps is what they is on the fixed axle BCs. I can shim the no-jives slightly.
What’s your string preference?
