I would be very careful about hyping about quality (which most people translate to smoothness) of a 500+ batch of yoyos. I know you are doing this out of goodness of your heart, but I think its hard to avoid people complaining after spending 100+ on a yoyo and there is fingernail vibe if it was advertised as A-grade with really good machining. Especially since you are hand testing every yoyo, so you do know what the actual quality situation is like. It would probably save you a lot of post sales headache, if there is a clear disclaimer about quality (e.g. maybe X% have nail vibe but no string vibe etc.). So you don’t get stuck with a situation where the nail vibe people start clamoring for a refund
I’d hate to see such a good intentioned project have negative reception. But people are not very nice when its about their own hard earned cash. Especially since you are not intending to charge a lot, I think a clear indication about the quality (especially about vibe and ano condition, e.g. like the black anno, it is probably really hard to get a uniform ano, and the recessed cuts probably isn’t as dark) wouldn’t scare away any purchasers, and probably save yourself from receiving some angry emails.
Looks like FPM is really out there to make a name for themselves.
If you are gona price them really low, you may want some measures against scalping (people buying bulk to sell at higher than retail). e.g. max number per cart, have several drop time, keep a reserve stock to trickle out over a lengthy period of time to stablise market price etc. I think in the end scalpers are opportunists, if you send a message that you aren’t turning a blind eye to them, they probably dont’ want to take the risk.
On the other hand, I really want an anodizer to buy like 20-50 of these, and give us something really nice. The options for titanium yoyo is really limited as far as finishes and colorway are concerned.
As far as quality goes, this run is virtually identical to the Ti Walker in that category as well.
The bearings are slightly lubed from FPM, so some are taking a bit of time to check since I used to only use dry bearings back in the day, but the numerical run itself has no B Grades as of yet, but as @vegabomb said I am only 24% done checking in this 2nd check.
EDITED TO PROVIDE MORE DETAIL –
Just a note, I make chainmaille jewelry and it is easy to make an anodizer for titanium/niobium (lots of videos about it on youtube, Dylan Kowalski even has some). I currently use multiple 9V batteries in series to generate the voltage I need and use a stainless steel spatula as my cathode, although I might need a larger cathode if I were to do a yoyo. I also would like to invest in a volt adjustable power source as some point, BUT IT IS NOT NECESSARY. This website also has some good info on anodizing: http://mrtitanium.com/anodizing.html
I haven’t anodized a Ti yoyo yet because I haven’t been able to afford one but hopefully some day I will get one and then I can make it a sweet purple (like pictured - Niobium tends to anodize more richly than titanium, but you can etch titanium to get deep colours). The thing that really excites me is that you can easily touch up the colour if it starts to wear (which with titanium means it will start migrating to a colour lower on the scale and typically not reach down to raw). This is because as opposed to anodizing aluminium (which creates a clear oxide layer that acts as a primer for coloured dyes), anodizing titanium does not use dyes, instead it create a crystalline oxide layer that changes light refraction as it gets thicker (and the thickness is regulated by voltage); this creates a whole spectrum of iridescent colours. So even if you scratch the finish, you can pop it back in the bath at the same voltage and it will “heal” the finish back to a uniform layer (its magic!). (Ps: A scale for voltage and colours with Nb/Ti attached.)
So moral of the story is that I would encourage people to get into anodizing titanium themselves. It is way more accessible that aluminum and it can be super fun. Plus if you screw up, you can use an etcher (which is caustic) to start over.
You can also use a torch to generate the same effect. The more you heat it, the thicker the oxide layer - but it is harder to get colour uniformity with a torch.
I think the final assembly is the only way to check for vibe though. They didn’t assemble and try them did they? I don’t think examining the halves could show if they are gonna vibe. Sounds like from what @HVizier said so far so good though.
Not trying to be argumentative just genuinely curious.
It’s rather boring. Sorry if that disappoints haha.
Dead string vibe test, nail vibe test, bearing response tests and then usually a spirit bomb and a few slack tricks (which double down on bearing response).